Advice on tools and products for polishing wheel lips

Dino D

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So I need to get some better attachment to get at my bare aluminum lips better.
The problem I have is that due to the way the spokes come outwards it's easy to foul the Powercone attachments on the spokes and not get right into the lips where it meets the spokes.

Hopefully these pics can show it:
The rear dish is deeper and more awkward.

I've been on here http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Mini_Polishing_Mops-p1.html
Trying to make sense of what I need. I'm concerned that these wheels could damage the spokes (the part that protrudes at the entre of the polishing wheel to hold it onto the drill).

Currently I use a Powercone and hand with White diamond and Meguirs alloy polish. Would prefer to have the right drill attachment that just got in nearly without rubbing the spokes, would be much quicker!
 

Antm72

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Dremel do a long flexible attatchment thats not much thicker than a pencil and a wadded type Polishing head .
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Dino D

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The Dremel attachment looks great but I think I'll burn the Dremel out in no time. I've already killed one doing exhaust tips and odd jobs!
 

5harp3y

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its going to be really hard to do with a polishing mop on a drill due to the proximity to the spokes.

might be time for some super fine wire wool / autosol
 

Dino D

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its going to be really hard to do with a polishing mop on a drill due to the proximity to the spokes.

might be time for some super fine wire wool / autosol
That's exactly it, I was thinking a larger diameter mop that would keep the Centre of the mop away from the spokes.
It's hard shopping online, really need to go somewhere and try a few out.

I'm doing it by hand which is fine as long as I stay on top of it but I'm trying to find a non-manual way. Then I can just jack the car up slightly and whizz round it it minutes.

Is there such thing as a 'heavy duty' Dremel. I believe I need revolutions and not torque for polishing?
I probably was applying too much pressure to my first Dremel hence killing it but I've heard they meant for jewelry polishing rather than wheels etc.
 

5harp3y

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just use a drill, if it helps some of the mandrels for the mops do not poke out so you might get away with it and they are very flexible.

those little cotton buds for dremels will not be effiecient in polishing a wheel rim you need much larger mop sizes
 

Daz3

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Can you not just mask the area off that way if you did catch it's only going to hit the tape?
 
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Bazza

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http://www.moleroda.com/ Dino have a look at this company I have used them before they are spot on for gear, if you have a compressor you could use a air driven pencil polisher that would last a lot longer than a Dremel hope this helps.:)
 

Dino D

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http://www.moleroda.com/ Dino have a look at this company I have used them before they are spot on for gear, if you have a compressor you could use a air driven pencil polisher that would last a lot longer than a Dremel hope this helps.:)
Thanks, that site looks good, will give them a call.
 

Dino D

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Can you not just mask the area off that way if you did catch it's only going to hit the tape?
It's more about the metal bits protruding from the middle of the polishing wheel - that will go straight through any masking I think.
Also want to reduce time taken as I like to polish every couple of weeks or so which keeps them smart with less effort.
 

oldcarman

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I would use a polishing buff that is shaped like a Xmas tree? With the shaft where the trunk would be. These can then be custom fit to whatever size and shape you need. Mask the spokes with enough tape to ensure you won't hit it with the centre of a wheel as well as masking the centre of the wheel itself. You can get a bigger, more powerful Dremel type tool make by Fordham, I believe it is and a few other co's. Your job will be much easier if you start with the correct compound, beginning with a course black and working your way up to a white jeweler's rouge. The more time you take with the courser compounds the better your job will turn out! Good luck! JIM
 

Summit Detailing

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Also want to reduce time taken as I like to polish every couple of weeks or so which keeps them smart with less effort.
If you get the wheels to a standard you are happy with then apply a long term coating like Gtechniq C5, Gyeon Q2Rim etc you won't need to polish them for a year or more (depending on car usage etc)
The only positive (or negative) is you get to spend more time with the wife!

Cheers
Chris
 

Dino D

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If you get the wheels to a standard you are happy with then apply a long term coating like Gtechniq C5, Gyeon Q2Rim etc you won't need to polish them for a year or more (depending on car usage etc)
The only positive (or negative) is you get to spend more time with the wife!

Cheers
Chris
Have you applied the Gtechniq to bare aluminum?
I used some on the painted spokes already. Not sure I can tell any difference to be honest, was bit disappointed given the price for a tiny bottle. It's also left a bit of a rough finish in places.
Maybe I did it wrong but worth a try I guess.
The wheels in good shape, haven't been used much and not all in winter so not a big job to get the finish perfect. I found in the summer a quick polish every week or so was enough bits it getting into the last inch or so that time consuming.
 

Summit Detailing

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Have you applied the Gtechniq to bare aluminum?
I used some on the painted spokes already. Not sure I can tell any difference to be honest, was bit disappointed given the price for a tiny bottle. It's also left a bit of a rough finish in places.
Maybe I did it wrong but worth a try I guess.
The wheels in good shape, haven't been used much and not all in winter so not a big job to get the finish perfect. I found in the summer a quick polish every week or so was enough bits it getting into the last inch or so that time consuming.
Yes, plenty of the classic cars I look after have been Gtechniq'd - makes maintaining wire wheels a doddle (relatively speaking).

The rough finish is more than likely product residue which hasn't been fully removed.

cheers

Chris
 

billz

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I always coat mine with Poorboys wheel sealant once a year and that enables me just to use Micro mitt, a brush with a Micro mitt (to get to the back of the wheel through the spokes) and a thick painters brush to get into the corners. I only have to polish them when i take them off too wheel seal them.
Have you thought about trying to make something ( like a pencil wrapped in micro fibre ) you can build it to the thickness you want then and use a driver instead of a drill ( More controllable )
 
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