Bmw Mini

[D R Oldfield]

I need to get a spare car i wont do a lot of mileage just something reliable and preferably fun , i was thinking a classic mini but then saw the prices , then started thinking what about a BMW Mini , are they any good ?or money pits ? they seem very reasonably priced especially early ones, the early Copper S looks very appealing, has any one any experience of them ?

 

[Pond]

The reason why early BMW Minis, the R56s, are cheap is because they are absolutely bloody AWFUL. Up until 2011 the petrols used a Peugeot 'Prince' engine which just doesn't work in the Mini.
I know because I have one (and I really wish I didn't). I bought a 'really good' low mileage 2010 Cooper for my daughter last year. It cost £2,800. It has done around 500 miles since then and it now owes me £4,500 and I have done most of the work it has needed myself!

There is a list as long as your arm of 'inherent' or 'common' issues with the R56s, from the infamous 'death rattle' to melting thermostat housings and everything in between.

Other than that they are not very nice to drive, small inside with weird interiors. They do handle well, though, if they work for long enough!

 

[GazHyde]

Where do I start

if you go with the R56 like mine, 2006 onwards - avoid the N14 engine and get a later one with the N18. Earlier than that I don’t have much experience. Mines a cracker, but it has had its issues but now I’ve knocked those out it’s great fun. Factory LSD, 1.6 turbo (can’t confirm if it’s been previously mapped), decent level of kit in it.

Parts are cheap as chips as well which is helpful.

 

[GazHyde]

https://zroadster.org/threads/new-daily-time-2007-mini-cooper-s.62065/

More of my journey with it. Actually my second R56, had a 1.6 diesel cooper and was by far the most reliable car I’ve ever owned over 6 years and 30k miles. Chalk and cheese!

 

[Althulas]

As Gaz has stated go for the N18. I’ve had to change the fuel pump, the two vanos solenoids which are common problems. The thermostat housing as it had gone brittle along with some of the other cooling pipes. Oil turbo feed line, return and gaskets to the oil cooler. Jobs like that require putting it into service mode… removing the front end it seem a big job but is not hard. Mine is approaching 140k and the engine is still strong. The cars are a little noisy but are fun and give reasonable mpg.

 

[D R Oldfield]

just been looking on line probably looking at an early R53 with the Tritec engine ? they seems to be have the best reviews , do these things suffer from rust ?

 

[Richard29]

I had 2 minis. Both very good both diesels. Only costs were servicing and tyres.

 

[Stevo7682]

Early mini can turn into money pit if you dont buy the right one.
Can tell you what i see and have seen on them for mot.
But that's going to half to wait a half hour or so as i have to go get my son from basketball training at the moment.

Stephen.

 

[t-tony]

Probably take more than half an hour too. Would likely be the last car I would buy TBH.

Tony.

 

[Pond]

Probably take more than half an hour too. Would likely be the last car I would buy TBH.

Tony.

Knowing what I now know, I would rather walk!

 

[Stevo7682]

So suppose as well to start at front work back
Front side lights and fog lights lamp unit an alloy deteriorates and lenses end up non reflective and swelling locks all the bulb holders in place.
Radiator cores alloy now starting to disintegrate with age.
Engine ( prince engine in early mini french junk)
Gearbox reliable enough as long as clutch good all is well if needs to come out fairly involved job.
Front subframes starting to crumble when need replacing needs full bolt set ( think around 12 to 16 bolts) needed.
Front brakes ate so pretty reliable just wear and tear issues
Front springs and shocks a lot original and look as such ( age biggest problem) you see them with splitting top mounts fairly often.
Front suspension arm are fairly reliable bar the rear bush but because the mounting bolts come down from top changing the arms requires full subframe drop.
Front drop links and track rod end xan wear from the firm suspension.
Cracked wheels with run flat tyre fitment also a problem.
Front and rear the end of the metal brake pipes can rot quite badly.
Exhaust cat pretty reliable.
Cent/ rear 1 piece section can suffer from corrosion shearing at back box.
Rear exhaust has separate belly band make sure thi and its floor mounted studs are good
Rear suspension not too bad just general wear and tear and corrosion issues.
Rear brakes can seize on due to poor maintenance.
There will be more but there's enough there to be getting on with.
Stephen.

 

[D R Oldfield]

Wow thanks every one , I think looking at this lot I might have to reconsider my choices, I think you have have just given me the kick up the backside to get my Z finished and out of the garage

 

[Ianmc]

Would you say that many of those issues are fairly typical for most non enthusiast owned circa 15 /20 year old cars used on British roads? Its not a dissimilar list from issues (apart from the engine) arising on our BMW E36 over the last 10 years.

 

[Andybpowell]

I had an R53 and drove it like I stole it and never had a single problem with it just like driving a go cart it had to go though before my license did fantastic fun though