Boot lock cable snapped - boot now opens 90degrees!

[Dino D]

I was working in the boot today and must have pushed it open a bit too far - a loud bang followed by the boot opening to a full 90degree angle.
Looking at the bootlid open full I thought, finally the boot opens properly like it should!



I thought that maybe there was something blocking my boot hinges all along and I dislodged it.

On further inspection all was ok on the hinges so I tested the boot lock and realized the cable in there has snapped/dislodged.
So I have made sure not to let the boot shut fully until I can strip out the lock and investigate further.
The only info I have found on the net so far says that once a Z boot lock fails there is no way to open it so making sure it doesn't close fully!

I'll report back once I've stripped it out but was wondering how far does everyone else's boot lids open. I like the new 90degree angle it's opening at now and would like to keep it that way...

 

[t-tony]

I can't really see the connection between the boot lid angle and the release cable which is attached to the catch, unless it has stretched near one of the hinges. I had the boot lid catch off my car last year and it was a little bit fiddly but easy enough.

Tony.

 

[hard top]

This is for Bad Boy and Oldcarman's benefit before you get asked if that is Fahrenheit or Celsius.

​

My boot (trunk) always has, so I have to be careful when the boot rack is on.

 

[zedonist]

They should all open like this to 90 degrees.

 

[t-tony]

That's what leads me to think the cable has been stretched by fouling one of the hinges. Mine opens to that amount and after a wash when I open the boot to wipe round the edges water runs from the outside of the brake light on the boot lid.

 

[Dino D]

Good to know they all should open like that...

Just going to have a look on Real OEM for whats in there and should hopefully have time to open it up tomorrow.

 

[zedonist]

If you do shut the boot, which you don't want to btw, you have to drill a hole behind the number plate to trip the lock.

 

[Dino D]

So I managed to have a good look today. The cables are all intact and boot lock works fine.
I found the something that was rattling around in the boot lock area and after maneuvering the boot with the brake light inside cover off this little grommet fell out - it seems that it was somewhere blocking the opening somehow (it has a ridge mark from being squashed).
So not a cable or connector rod as I thought.



Boot opens fine now but as mentioned needs help to get fully open as struts probably tired (or just by design?).
One of the strut lower 'ball joint' mounting point is cracked so has some play but still attached and functions fine...

 

[t-tony]

Good news it's not a big job then Dino.

 

[robertjones]

If you do shut the boot, which you don't want to btw, you have to drill a hole behind the number plate to trip the lock.

am confused here. how would drilling a hole behind the number plate allow access to the lock? On mine the number plate is way below the lock, , when i had an mx5, i left the keys locked in the boot once , the only way in on that was to break the rear light lens and open the lock that way but on the z there is a cover which would stop that

 

[Dino D]

I think he meant drill hole in the bootlid behind the roundel on a non M or numberplate if it's an M as the plate sits on the lid on the M.
Drilling into the bootlid has been done I believe according to what I came across on a US forum.

 

[Dino D]

Good news it's not a big job then Dino.

Yes, just a distraction from wiring up my sub and sealing the leak!
Just a reminder how easy it is to work on these cars!