Boot loom / actuator

bonbon

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Model of Z
19L Auto
My central locking closes doors but not the boot. Interestingly, my boot key locks and opens the boot and the doors.
My guess is it’s the wire in the boot loom that activates the boot lock.
If this makes sense, can anyone tell me what is the colour of that wire that can save me checking the continuity of all the wires on the loom.
Cheers 🍻
 

John_B

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I'm sorry, I don't recall the colour, however there is a small access panel on the inside of the boot lid, pop that out and you'll see the connector for the lock actuator and that will tell you which ones to focus on.
 

bonbon

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Israel
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19L Auto
Based on an earlier post by Brian H, perhaps based on what I described, somebody can narrow it down to which one:
“The three wires below are supply wires and lock position wires, the supply is fed from fuse 7 (5amp)
  • 0.35 RT/GN red/green - boot lock switch - supply wire
  • 0.5 WS/BL white/blue - boot lock switch - unlock wire
  • 0.5 WS/GN/GE white/green/yellow - boot lock switch - lock wire”
 

Rudyrov

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I have the same issue in my Z, Is there a common place this wire tends to fail?
Thanks
 

bonbon

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19L Auto
Based on the pics in this this thread - it's a White/Blue or Blue Grey (one pic appears to me from my ca as duplicated below)
It seems to happen at the bend inside the loom where the clip supports the loom (between the body and the lid).
As I rarely go into the boot, I’m tempted to just live with it until another wire gives way….
 
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Brian H

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I’d be inclined to think you have a faulty boot central locking actuator unit in the boot, by manually turning the key in the boot lock you are successfully triggering the signal wires to lock/unlock the car doors, as this works it would indicate to me your wiring is intact.

I’d need to dig out the wiring diagrams again to check the colours above, it’s been a minute or two since I’ve checked these.
 

t-tony

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Makes sense to me Brian.

Tony.
 

bonbon

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Brian, thanks for your insight.
But look at link above. I seem to have the exact same symptoms as Richardix - and he had a torn blue wire.
Am I missing something?
Also based on the following thread - it seems that most likely it is another case of loom gloom.
When I have a chance I can check the continuity of the relevant wires.
But hey - this is crazy.
Seems I did it 11 years ago 🫣 then it was Blue/Gray wire…
Recovered pics from 13 years ago (not in order) 😎
 

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Brian H

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IMG_5252.jpeg


IMG_5253.jpeg

The images are for a 1998 Z3, hope I got this correct.

So we have a 5 wire circuit, the 0.5 WS/BL and 0.5 WS/GN/GE are the signal wires to the ZKE control unit, I believe these are good as the system recognises the lock/unlock function when you manually turning the key in the boot.

As you do not get the lock or unlock function I would first test the 12vdc supply at the boot lock actuator unit (via fuse 7), we know the fuse is good as it serves the other locks but this could be a dodgy/broken wire. If you have good power then this leaves the 1.5mm motor control wires or the motor itself.

I believe the motor control wires are momentary switched negative outputs from the ZKE (not verified but it’s the only way I can see this working) so you could try grounding pins 1 & 2 (one at a time and at your own risk) to see if the motor moves.

If you are going to test as above, disconnect the plug from the actuator so you don’t fry anything else in the car 😆
 
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John_B

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If you want my 2 cents, I'd suggest just chopping the section out and using a repair kit on the entire thing. If one (or more) wires are already damaged, it is only a matter of time before more follow.

I have done it on two Z3s now (once preventetive, and on the other because I replaced the bootlid, and even though they were working, they were a real rats nest under all the tape and deteriorating rubbers. It's a pretty straight forward job, I used the heat-shrink + solder connectors, so didn't even need to do any soldering either.

This is the kit I purchased

(And these are the solder connectors
)
 

bonbon

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All my 8 wires in loom have connectivity and 9 fingers ok 😜
Is there a straightforward way to test the actuator before I order another?
 

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