What could be easier than to replace brake disks and pads? Not in case when stupid greasy monkey bolted wheels with air wrench. Spent an hour just to remove 5 bolts on rear left wheel... Now all rotors new and shiny and new pads installed as well. What is interesting, my zed is 12 years old and have 88k miles on the clock but it seems rotors never has been replaced. Must admit front ones was in terrible condition, but rears pretty much ok, but replaced them too...
Brake disks
- Thread starter ppavuk
- Start date
It is always a good idea if you have had new tyres or other work which needs the wheels removing, to check the tightness of the wheel bolts after. I have always found that they are overtightened. Tyre fitters just seem to wind up there wrenches to max and leave them there.
On my old GT6, they twice sheared studs.
On my old GT6, they twice sheared studs.
Have you also noticed that when garages put wheels back on they go around with a torque wrench and check the torque so you get the impression they are doing it correctly but next time watch again as when the put the torque wrench on it immediately clicks which just means they are at least at the minimum torque set on the wrench but more than likely a lot tighter. What should happen is they need to wind at least a quarter of a turn with the torque wrench before it clicks then you know they are at the correct torque and not over tightened.
@t-tony whats your take on this ?
@t-tony whats your take on this ?
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2016
- Points
- 208
- Location
- Maybole , South Ayrshire
- Model of Z
- Z3 Individual Dakar / Orinoco Individual
Depends on the garage we are banned from using air tools to remove /fit wheels so on off by hand but you are right if torque wrench clicking straight away bolt already too tight
Absolutely spot on Ian, happens every day in tyre bays. When I run wheels nuts/bolts up I put my windy gun on it's lowest setting and even then only run it till the bolt contacts the wheel face. If a torque wrench does not rotate before "clicking off" the fixing is too tight in the first place. I see a guy who uses a torque wrench like a machine gun, what he thinks he's doing is beyond me.
For the cost of a budget D.I.Y. torque wrench I would by one and slacken the nuts/bolts when I get home and re-torque them myself.
Tony.
I do have 450nm DIY electric-air gun. 3 other wheels came off in seconds. My gun does not have torque settings, so I use it only to unbolt. So I assume it is always on 450nm, and finally to get bolts off I've switched gun forward and reverse dozens of times on each bolt, and at some point they went off. I also broke two rods just before. I thought to go to an garage to get wheel off, but finally my forward \reverse strategy worked!
also, I never used torque wrench to bolt wheels, I just use oem wrench, and as I am not particularly powerful I assume the force I can apply to oem wrench is about right. Perhaps I'll eBay or amazon for diy torque wrench, I have to remove wheels again soon as they due refurbishment.
If you struggle to get wheel bolts undone, the best option is to lower the car back down to the ground and use a "cracking" bar to loosen them before jacking the car. Most wheel fixings, and indeed general fixings fail due to be over tightened the under tightened.
Tony.
Tony.
that's what I did with no luck, two breaker bars go straight to bin so far... Need to purchase new ones!
The wrench supplied with any vehicle should be long enough for the "average" person to be able to tighten the wheel fixings to an acceptable level. A torque wrench gives you the peace of mind to know that it's correct.
Tony.
Tony.
Can only say that the cracking bars you had were inferior quality (no offence). It is simply a sign of incompetence in my industry I'm sorry to say.
Tony.
yeah, and as I am average indeed I never failed with this approach, but will purchase an torque wrench for sure, as with zed I am going to became diy mechanic
btw, any suggestions from professional on the wrench very welcome.must be so. That was cheap silverline stuff. Both broke on the joint at the end, I am not sure how it is called, I am not native English speaker, the part where the socket is set, a square bit of metall at the end of bar.Can only say that the cracking bars you had were inferior quality (no offence). It is simply a sign of incompetence in my industry I'm sorry to say.
Tony.
I have a Britool one which is 1/2" drive and does all I need. It cost me about £80 a few years ago as I had instructed an apprentice to slacken the wrench back to zero after use ( you should never leave a torque wrench "loaded") and he wound it back, and back, and back.yeah, and as I am average indeed I never failed with this approach, but will purchase an torque wrench for sure, as with zed I am going to became diy mechanic
Tony.
May be worth returning these to who ever supplied them. Most tools, however cheap, do have a warranty these days.Worth a try!
Tony.
I've ebayd them 3-4 years ago and don't have receipts anymore. They served me well and cost a tenner or so I wont bother
Fair comment mate.
Tony.
Tony.
I've just check amazon and found those high torque wrenches surprisingly expensive. Starting at about 100 quids. So purchased 3/8 and 1/2 breaker bars at fraction of torque wrench cost. I better spend the difference on pub crawl, i am finally just diy mechanic, those tools will never make me profit!I have a Britool one which is 1/2" drive and does all I need. It cost me about £80 a few years ago as I had instructed an apprentice to slacken the wrench back to zero after use ( you should never leave a torque wrench "loaded") and he wound it back, and back, and back.
Tony.