Door won't unlock

[53dke]

I have a 2003 z4 and the drivers door wont unlock with the remote, the passenger door unlocks and both doors will lock with the remote , the drivers door will unlock with the key.

Anybody help?

 

[GazHyde]

Sounds like the door lock actuator to me. Have the same on my Z3, which is more common. Drivers door and boot open from the remote, but nothing from the passenger door.

 

[hard top]

Anybody help?

One of these.....

 

[Titan]

Sounds like the door lock actuator to me

I'm not convinced Gary

... the passenger door unlocks and both doors will lock with the remote

As the driver's actuator solenoid is working but only in "lock" mode. I suspect a wiring fault rather than the actuator itself.
Do Z4s suffer from the same wiring harness fracture problem at the boot lid/body interface that Z3s do?
Is there another place where repetitive movement may have caused a fatigue failure in the wiring loom?
Unless it is easy to get at the actuator inside the door panel and test it, I would be inclined to look elsewhere for a cause first.

 

[GazHyde]

Titan,

Not sure on the wiring routes in the boot regarding door locks, I personally haven't come across any Z4's with that particular issue.

I know from personal experience that a lot of the wiring loom passes through the boot area. A cable being chopped by the boot lid mechanism was the cause of the amplifier failure in mine (amplifier is in the battery well in the boot). Took hours of being plugged in to a BMW diagnostics machine to locate that fault!

Only experience I've come across with Z4 door locks tends to be the actuator. That said, I agree that you can't rule out a wiring loom fault!

 

[jonco]

If it were a Z3, my money would be on the loom from body to boot as Titan suggests and is a common fault - but admit I have no experience of the 4.

A quick check worth trying ( but not guaranteed) is to flex the loom at body to boot lid transition and see if symptoms change. Worked for me on the 3 as continuity was making and breaking - also cheaper than BMW diagnostics.

Another one is to remove a cover and find unsheathed section of cable then gently pull on each core in turn. There are 9 on the Z3 - 2 for central brake light and rest for boot lock and return circuit.


Good Luck

 

[53dke]

Will give it a try with the cable, the problem I have now is that the battery is totally flat, the car has been parked up for 5 months, I have had it on charge for 8 hrs but still nothing, I have jump started it ok and been for a drive around for half an hour, car wouldn't start in the morning. I have been told that the battery may be stratified and will need a deep charge so I am going to invest in a Ctek charger conditioner which can be left on charge for long periods, anybody have any experience of this charger?

 

[GazHyde]

If the battery has completely flattened for a period of time, you may experience another small issue. If when power is returned, you don't have full use of the air con, heater and some other controls your car has entered "transport mode".

The reason behind transport mode is that it stops the batteries flattening on brand new cars while they are being delivered from the factory/dealer to the new owner. Basically shuts down things that could put a drain on the battery if accidentally turned on in transit.

If you do get this, then it's either a BMW dealer or someone with diagnostic software to switch off.

I think you will be ok but I get emails from club members about it regularly!

 

[53dke]

Finger crossed then, thanks