Lulubell
Newbie
Finally completed today on my 1999 T plate Z3m s50 engine U.K spec coupe , some pointers below to help someone removing pump to prevent some mistakes I made or help troubleshooting pump issues.
It’s a bit detailed but that’s how I roll…
…Removing fuel pump…
Fuel pump is behind driver seat behind half moon cut out in carpet (U.K. right hand drive )
Remove x4 bolts supporting seat , start with the fronts first , move seat forward to remove rear bolts.
Just lift seat frame towards steering wheel no need to complete take out of car , the cables underneath don’t need disconnecting, put something under rails to save damage crush marks to carpet (I used pipe foam)
…..Then remove battery cable ……
must do this as petrol fumes plus have plenty of ventilation….
Half circle carpet section need moving to the right .
Remove x4 pozi screws holding metal black plate with foam backing being careful not to drop them behind the carpet just below!!!…
Give it a good clean as this will be dirty as exposed too the elements dust over the years.
Spray wd40 on push fit pipes and electrical connections to help removing
Flat head screwdriver at the top section of electric socket push in slot push upwards towards the top of pump too prise open connector .
Push down pipes at the same time with the tool listed below push in the green tab then pull up (many thanks for Pingu advice including tool)
Put old towels onto carpet when disconnected push fit pipes some fuel does come out not much but does stop .
Top tip..
Take off fuel filling cap this will help removing the push fit pipes if pressurised to save being sprayed.(then spent 30 mins trying to find where I put it after removing lol)
….I bought this tool (Thanks to Pingu) to press in the green tab , used the 80* one which was a great help..
You can get them on their own £12.99 but the kit with extra bits was worth it links below page….
Use a piece wood 50cm length of 2x2 cut at angle to slot into grooves to remove plastic slip holding pump tapping with rubber mallet anticlockwise directions , it will be stiff at first be patient and be careful not to hit the x2 pipes sticking out of pump as it will get expensive!
I marked out with white marker pen the original position of pump on the tank so goes back original position (myself done at 3.00 o’clock but lock ring was very tight when fitting back so was set at 2.00 o’clock)
Remove pump comes out very easily the float on the left side might get stuck..
Again loads of towels as fuel pump will leak ..
Make sure the tank is on empty , even with the fuel light just winked on is enough for fuel to slightly leak out when removing .
I jacked OSR car up to aid siphon out the old fashioned way but left car in that up position to move fuel away when replacing pump plus a nice position to work on too..(not as young as I use to be)
I put under the car my grandkids little paddling pool to catch the fuel if it overflows when removing pump note : it won’t go inside the car but was a bit scary when I removed mine as a bit did splash out below , I thought it was nearly empty..
I push back the pump hosing straight away which stopped the leaking fuel and proceeded on removing more..
Put back the thick rubber seal top of fuel tank if it pops out, this must be done or you will have issues putting pump back..
To dismantle pump use a stanley blade to slice “vertical” through the old black plastic pipe especially on the top, don’t try to pull it off as I broke mine luckily was the bottom side of the pump.
Remove the x2 electric connections then the x3 rubber dampers to remove plastic hosing around pump.
Filter at base easily removes with screwdriver.
This is a bit of a fiddle …
There is x3 plastic lips holding pump in the plastic shroud again screwdriver is your friend push open pull upwards.
There is a rubber skirt supplied with kit , which goes around new pump to make up the difference as the new pump is slightly thinner.
Fit new pump into plastic hosing again allowing for pump to protrude as it was originally (see pics)
Cut wires to suitable lengths, brown is power..
Your friend is heat with pipes had to use heat gun on medium settings to fit as you will damage pipe fittings forcing them on (see pics below)
Make sure there’s enough heat in the pipe but not too much to damage pipe supplied in kit (obviously with no heat near plastic fuel pump pipe housing or use cardboard behind to protect damage from heat) start with the top ribbed section leave new pump side fitting last .. Again must have enough heat in rubber pipe especially the top ribbed section , like me it got stuck halfway but managed with some force to remove..
Then fit supplied white fuel filter at base which is push fit push hard to secure..
Again make sure the base of the pump is protruding as pics below..
Then reverse to fit..
But make sure the thick rubber seal fitted to top of tank is firmly fitted first before fitting pump or you will have trouble fitting..
Then line up your white marks you did originally on the tank to line up the pump housing , the slip ring I put silicon grease to help fitting.
Like I mentioned, the slip ring white pen marks didn’t line up re-fitting when tapping clockwise with my 2x2 wood (again be aware of the x2 pipe fittings top of pump as only fragile plastic ) it was really getting very very tight nearing the white marking so I left it at 2.00 o’clock position to prevent possible damage , but was very tight and secure.
Then firmly push fit x2 pipes , push fit the electric connector with a good squeeze will only go one way , then metal cover with foam seal .
Don’t forget to put back your fuel filler cap you took off earlier !
Extra note..
I sprayed loads of Bilt Hamber Dynax-ub protection behind the panel both sides of the pump for extra protection before refitting cover..
your garage will stink for days of fuel so leave battery disconnected (don’t forget your radio code)
…To remove replace the relay in the car…
Position of the relay which is drivers side (U.K.) is just above speaker to check or replace if the pump has failed.
Remove the x2 plastic surrounding the brake pedals & steering column very easy to do, the issue I had was removing these small plastic cosmetic bits covering the heads of the pozi screws ..
The rubber around the base of the steering cowling (which don’t need removing ) will fly off just needed double tape to refit..
While your there lubricant the clutch lever bits pins etc as normally excess in a pain..
This relay fitted top right as you look at it , colour is light green will be farthest one way from you just pull upwards .
Make a visual note of the relay how it come out as it on can go back one way to lock into tabs , I marked mine with white marker towards wing.
You can use the horn relay (top left as you look at fuse box passenger side (U.K.) which is under bonnet to swop out as same part’s number , while you there check fuse 13 including 18 check these too as pump won’t work if blown.
Extra note:
If you do swop over your relay and the pump works , then fit the non working one temporarily back on your horn thinking it just the horn ..
Well..
Your outside temperature dial/oil pressure dial/water temperature on cluster/brake lights will not work!!.(horn will work lol)
I be honest replaced mine as a precaution , 25 yrs pumping away etc..
I replaced the relay & pump for just over £100 notes , just saves me stressing better than being stuck out in the sticks with a failed pump with no mobile signal!!
Extra note:
The pic of the power distribution chart the top the top three relays 2nd air pump / fuel pump / engine control module are not on the Z3m so ignore that..
Cheers
Ady
Link for pump & relay and tool below
Tool
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09FS2FD...roduct_details
relay
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07573G6...roduct_details
pump
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235511686846
Genuine Walbro Motorsport 255LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit for BMW E36 M3 320i 325i
electrical connectors
DISCLAIMER
THIS WILL BE A GUIDE ONLY, YOU DON'T KNOW MY CAR AND I DON'T KNOW YOURS.
REMEMBER - ALWAYS REMOVE THE BATTERY FROM THE CAR AND CROSS THE CABLES IN THE CAR WHEN WORKING ON ANYTHING IN THE CAR!
ALSO - JUST BECAUSE I WRITE SOMETHING, DOESN"T MEAN YOU UNDERSTAND IT.
AND ANYTHING I TELL YOU IS BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE AND NOT YOURS.
LASTLY, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY REPAIRS YOU DO ON YOUR CAR, NOT ME.
It’s a bit detailed but that’s how I roll…
…Removing fuel pump…
Fuel pump is behind driver seat behind half moon cut out in carpet (U.K. right hand drive )
Remove x4 bolts supporting seat , start with the fronts first , move seat forward to remove rear bolts.
Just lift seat frame towards steering wheel no need to complete take out of car , the cables underneath don’t need disconnecting, put something under rails to save damage crush marks to carpet (I used pipe foam)
…..Then remove battery cable ……
must do this as petrol fumes plus have plenty of ventilation….
Half circle carpet section need moving to the right .
Remove x4 pozi screws holding metal black plate with foam backing being careful not to drop them behind the carpet just below!!!…
Give it a good clean as this will be dirty as exposed too the elements dust over the years.
Spray wd40 on push fit pipes and electrical connections to help removing
Flat head screwdriver at the top section of electric socket push in slot push upwards towards the top of pump too prise open connector .
Push down pipes at the same time with the tool listed below push in the green tab then pull up (many thanks for Pingu advice including tool)
Put old towels onto carpet when disconnected push fit pipes some fuel does come out not much but does stop .
Top tip..
Take off fuel filling cap this will help removing the push fit pipes if pressurised to save being sprayed.(then spent 30 mins trying to find where I put it after removing lol)
….I bought this tool (Thanks to Pingu) to press in the green tab , used the 80* one which was a great help..
You can get them on their own £12.99 but the kit with extra bits was worth it links below page….
Use a piece wood 50cm length of 2x2 cut at angle to slot into grooves to remove plastic slip holding pump tapping with rubber mallet anticlockwise directions , it will be stiff at first be patient and be careful not to hit the x2 pipes sticking out of pump as it will get expensive!
I marked out with white marker pen the original position of pump on the tank so goes back original position (myself done at 3.00 o’clock but lock ring was very tight when fitting back so was set at 2.00 o’clock)
Remove pump comes out very easily the float on the left side might get stuck..
Again loads of towels as fuel pump will leak ..
Make sure the tank is on empty , even with the fuel light just winked on is enough for fuel to slightly leak out when removing .
I jacked OSR car up to aid siphon out the old fashioned way but left car in that up position to move fuel away when replacing pump plus a nice position to work on too..(not as young as I use to be)
I put under the car my grandkids little paddling pool to catch the fuel if it overflows when removing pump note : it won’t go inside the car but was a bit scary when I removed mine as a bit did splash out below , I thought it was nearly empty..
I push back the pump hosing straight away which stopped the leaking fuel and proceeded on removing more..
Put back the thick rubber seal top of fuel tank if it pops out, this must be done or you will have issues putting pump back..
To dismantle pump use a stanley blade to slice “vertical” through the old black plastic pipe especially on the top, don’t try to pull it off as I broke mine luckily was the bottom side of the pump.
Remove the x2 electric connections then the x3 rubber dampers to remove plastic hosing around pump.
Filter at base easily removes with screwdriver.
This is a bit of a fiddle …
There is x3 plastic lips holding pump in the plastic shroud again screwdriver is your friend push open pull upwards.
There is a rubber skirt supplied with kit , which goes around new pump to make up the difference as the new pump is slightly thinner.
Fit new pump into plastic hosing again allowing for pump to protrude as it was originally (see pics)
Cut wires to suitable lengths, brown is power..
Your friend is heat with pipes had to use heat gun on medium settings to fit as you will damage pipe fittings forcing them on (see pics below)
Make sure there’s enough heat in the pipe but not too much to damage pipe supplied in kit (obviously with no heat near plastic fuel pump pipe housing or use cardboard behind to protect damage from heat) start with the top ribbed section leave new pump side fitting last .. Again must have enough heat in rubber pipe especially the top ribbed section , like me it got stuck halfway but managed with some force to remove..
Then fit supplied white fuel filter at base which is push fit push hard to secure..
Again make sure the base of the pump is protruding as pics below..
Then reverse to fit..
But make sure the thick rubber seal fitted to top of tank is firmly fitted first before fitting pump or you will have trouble fitting..
Then line up your white marks you did originally on the tank to line up the pump housing , the slip ring I put silicon grease to help fitting.
Like I mentioned, the slip ring white pen marks didn’t line up re-fitting when tapping clockwise with my 2x2 wood (again be aware of the x2 pipe fittings top of pump as only fragile plastic ) it was really getting very very tight nearing the white marking so I left it at 2.00 o’clock position to prevent possible damage , but was very tight and secure.
Then firmly push fit x2 pipes , push fit the electric connector with a good squeeze will only go one way , then metal cover with foam seal .
Don’t forget to put back your fuel filler cap you took off earlier !
Extra note..
I sprayed loads of Bilt Hamber Dynax-ub protection behind the panel both sides of the pump for extra protection before refitting cover..
your garage will stink for days of fuel so leave battery disconnected (don’t forget your radio code)
…To remove replace the relay in the car…
Position of the relay which is drivers side (U.K.) is just above speaker to check or replace if the pump has failed.
Remove the x2 plastic surrounding the brake pedals & steering column very easy to do, the issue I had was removing these small plastic cosmetic bits covering the heads of the pozi screws ..
The rubber around the base of the steering cowling (which don’t need removing ) will fly off just needed double tape to refit..
While your there lubricant the clutch lever bits pins etc as normally excess in a pain..
This relay fitted top right as you look at it , colour is light green will be farthest one way from you just pull upwards .
Make a visual note of the relay how it come out as it on can go back one way to lock into tabs , I marked mine with white marker towards wing.
You can use the horn relay (top left as you look at fuse box passenger side (U.K.) which is under bonnet to swop out as same part’s number , while you there check fuse 13 including 18 check these too as pump won’t work if blown.
Extra note:
If you do swop over your relay and the pump works , then fit the non working one temporarily back on your horn thinking it just the horn ..
Well..
Your outside temperature dial/oil pressure dial/water temperature on cluster/brake lights will not work!!.(horn will work lol)
I be honest replaced mine as a precaution , 25 yrs pumping away etc..
I replaced the relay & pump for just over £100 notes , just saves me stressing better than being stuck out in the sticks with a failed pump with no mobile signal!!
Extra note:
The pic of the power distribution chart the top the top three relays 2nd air pump / fuel pump / engine control module are not on the Z3m so ignore that..
Cheers
Ady
Link for pump & relay and tool below
Tool
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09FS2FD...roduct_details
relay
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07573G6...roduct_details
pump
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235511686846
Genuine Walbro Motorsport 255LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit for BMW E36 M3 320i 325i
electrical connectors
DISCLAIMER
THIS WILL BE A GUIDE ONLY, YOU DON'T KNOW MY CAR AND I DON'T KNOW YOURS.
REMEMBER - ALWAYS REMOVE THE BATTERY FROM THE CAR AND CROSS THE CABLES IN THE CAR WHEN WORKING ON ANYTHING IN THE CAR!
ALSO - JUST BECAUSE I WRITE SOMETHING, DOESN"T MEAN YOU UNDERSTAND IT.
AND ANYTHING I TELL YOU IS BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE AND NOT YOURS.
LASTLY, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY REPAIRS YOU DO ON YOUR CAR, NOT ME.
Last edited: