PROJECT HALF PINT 🖤💚 Long Island Z3 2.8L

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
Our journey began in 2019, accepting the keys in a Shop Rite parking lot BUSSIN’ that throttle open to my hearts content. Five years later, (two years being a sitting duck) here we are.
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Majority of my time with my 2.8 the car was covered/uncovered on pavement driveway. Once it was sitting, it stayed parked on driveway covered. We never had problems with rats or mice, I found no nesting or debris at all aside from spiders and webs. I have no rust on my exterior, no rot so far in the engine bay or undercarriage that I’d been able to find & I want to keep it that way. (I have NOT removed my sills, but I WILL 👍🏻- stay tuned) I do have oxidation on some of my bare metals. Before I get ahead of myself, first a little 101 on my lil treasure. He’s a 1998 2.8L six cylinder roadster. The gentleman I bought it from added M model accessories but it is NOT a M model. It is the 2.8. I have the stock double over-head camshaft, mounted in line 6 with my tranny bolted on the rear end. It has been upgraded with a K&N cold air intake (cone filter), as well as a scorpion exhaust and tail pipe. Aside from that slight oxidation on my metals, everything is intact so far. I had a cracked intake boot which I replaced with an OEM boot I managed to get my hands on. However, the lower hose leading from the bottom of the intake boot to the side of the engine is cracked at the top where it meets the boot. So I will have to replace that as well. And the main issue I’ve struggled with is the ongoing hazards. I’ve read allot on it, and I have plenty to troubleshoot and try regarding that issue. It is why I have left the battery disconnected. Any input on experience with that is appreciated! 🙌🏻
He’s wearing 18” wheels and tires 🛞, currently wearing ☠ DRY ROTTED Kenda Kaisers 265/35ZR18 in the rear, 225/40R18 in the front. These tires WILL BE SWITCHED sooner than later. I intend on keeping the size specs the same. Currently looking into buying tires within the next few weeks. My dad is keeping my hopes high that after a clean and some driving my rotors will look much better, but I’m keeping all the wheel and brake part numbers handy for peace of mind.
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The stock stereo system was swapped for a simple but superior Sirius XM Bluetooth stereo. My speaker covers are rusted, I intend on popping those, cleaning them up and repainting them.
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I do have the usual glove box sag, and although I don’t experience rocking seats I DO have the bushing kit for the seat issue which I intend on installing because I have to remove my seats regardless. Why? You may not be able to tell from these pictures, I was too ashamed to take any of it before 🫣 but due to this little problem with my top, as well as a missing rubber retainer in the rear
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I was cursed with an exceptional amount of surface mold in my interior, mostly on the carpets and some rust in my truck. I spent three days, each day thoroughly on each section, to the BEST of my ability, cleaned, detailed, sanitized & disinfected every inch of what I could access with success! I cleaned so much, I got my very first crack in my passenger seat leather 💔 IF YOUR LEATHER FEELS DRY, CONDITION!! I was so worried about everything being sanitized that I neglected to condition and my passenger seat paid for it. It’s not terrible, I’m sure. But, you can bet I went out that very moment and did a full condition treatment on all the leather in the interior. Again, with great success!
✨Here is a full list of everything I used for the cleaning and conditioning treatment of the interior:
* Chemical Guys All Purpose Cleaner, Disinfectant & Degreaser
* Tuff Stuff Multi-Purpose Foam Cleaner (red & yellow can)
* Turtle Wax Carpet Cleaner w/ Oxi
* Turtle Wax Multi-Purpose Interior Spray w/ Oxi
* Armor All Power Vac w/ attachments
* BOUNTY of Microfiber Towels
* Carpet Brush (handheld hard bristle brush)
* Paper Towels
* Sprayway Glass Cleaner
* Sprayway Leather Cleaner
* Griot’s 3-1 Leather Cleaner & Conditioner
* Leather Honey Leather Conditioner
* WD40 (was used in locks, latches, hinges)
I’m contemplating using some black to black plastic/vinyl restore, as well as some vinegar lemon solution for the back window. Any recommendations or advice is 100% welcome! I can’t see any mildew or grime under the seats with a flashlight but it’s wishful thinking to believe I could get away without cleaning underneath them as well. Not only for cleaning, but I developed an issue with my driver’s seat. It’s currently ALL the way back, from the last time my dad drove it. I’m only 5’0 so obviously I drive with it ALL the way forward. When I went to adjust this, I could not bring the seat forward. I can hear the motor working, but it almost seems as if the seat came off the track. It goes slightly forward and to the right towards my shifter then stops. This has resulted in it being stuck, only able to bring it all the way back again. Two good reasons to pop that sucker out, will do the same with passenger while I got the tools ready to go . Install the bushings, hopefully fix this issue with the seat alignment and the interior will be complete for the time being. Although, I do have a variety of upgrades in mind, one step at a time!
Currently, I’m working on the trunk. I sanded/brushed most of the rust out, a few more spots and it’ll be totally removed
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Once this is completed and sanded I will prep, apply rust prevention and paint. I’m currently looking into using Rustoleum to aid in removal, and POR15 with the top coat for rust prevention. Opinions are welcome as always.
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Stay tuned as I make my way through this beauty! ✨🛞✌🏻
Yours truly - eastsideshego on PROJECT HALF PINT 🖤💚
 

Attachments

Althulas

Zorg Guru (V)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Points
198
Location
Banburyshire
Model of Z
M Roadster
If you use Por 15 there’s been mixed results with some member getting to clean metal and following the prep is the key. If you look in my thread I used epoxy paint and sprayed over with RAL 7002 is a close match to the oem finish.

As for your stuck seat you may find this thread insightful https://zroadster.org/articles/bmw-z3-stuck-seat-motor-seat-removal.21/#ams-comment-121

If you have a mini polisher it will make short work of improving the rear screen. A polish like Greygate https://www.silmid.com/us/cleaners/...Dvs-EAQcH0MnXCu0YBEMt6cMt9jZK4fGZAJsUN-UVT-mh or Maguire’s plas x are good and results can be achieved by hand with some patience and elbow grease.

There’s a number of threads out there regarding the US glove box sagging and vids
View: https://youtu.be/186-ZXRjf-0?si=bEFC1pNcadOAe77K
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
If you use Por 15 there’s been mixed results with some member getting to clean metal and following the prep is the key. If you look in my thread I used epoxy paint and sprayed over with RAL 7002 is a close match to the oem finish.

As for your stuck seat you may find this thread insightful https://zroadster.org/articles/bmw-z3-stuck-seat-motor-seat-removal.21/#ams-comment-121

If you have a mini polisher it will make short work of improving the rear screen. A polish like Greygate https://www.silmid.com/us/cleaners/...Dvs-EAQcH0MnXCu0YBEMt6cMt9jZK4fGZAJsUN-UVT-mh or Maguire’s plas x are good and results can be achieved by hand with some patience and elbow grease.

There’s a number of threads out there regarding the US glove box sagging and vids
View: https://youtu.be/186-ZXRjf-0?si=bEFC1pNcadOAe77K
I’m making sure to take my time prepping, I hear all around that is the key to it lasting. I never heard of RAL 7002! I will definitely be checking out your thread, and the ones you listed! I definitely want to evaluate all my options before I go head first applying anything. Much appreciated! Thank you kindly, I have some homework to do!
 

ExMX5owner

Moderator
Staff member
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Australian Zeds
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Aug 31, 2022
Points
126
Location
Queensland, Australia
Model of Z
99 2.0
Stove Paint does well on speaker grilles, its thin and capillary attraction draws it in , and does not clog the mesh. mask around the grill with tape and do it with a small artists paintbrush maybe 8 to 10 mm, that,s 5/16 to 3/8 for you you ;), Knock off any powdery stuff first with a stiff brush. that way you dont have to disassemble anything, I did mine that way 2 years ago and they were worse than yours are, and the rear ones probably need it too... Still look good ...
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Nodzed

Zorg Expert (II)
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British Zeds
M Power
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Feb 18, 2016
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Location
Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
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Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
:welcome:
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
✨🖤Update 9/22/2024💚✨
More engine bay cleaning today, I removed my cone filter for cleaning and new oil.
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I gave it three rounds of first cleaner, then allowing it to sit for 15 minutes then rinsing. I was able to get majority of the old oil and debris off, however around the very top and bottom of the cone it was difficult to remove. This was the best I was able to get it without any power wash, as that is not recommended. Any tips for the removal of the last stubborn bit? 🤔 Or would I be alright to just re-oil at this point?
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Stay tuned! Looking to finish the engine bay, pull my idle valve control hose (that’s cracked) and start rust prevention in the trunk boot tomorrow! 9/23/2024 Will post! 👏🏻✨
 

andyglym

Shiny Dust Caps Make Your Zed Go Faster.
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2015
Points
231
Location
Moresby, West Cumbria, England
Model of Z
2.8 Roadster
✨🖤Update 9/22/2024💚✨
More engine bay cleaning today, I removed my cone filter for cleaning and new oil.View attachment 317989
I gave it three rounds of first cleaner, then allowing it to sit for 15 minutes then rinsing. I was able to get majority of the old oil and debris off, however around the very top and bottom of the cone it was difficult to remove. This was the best I was able to get it without any power wash, as that is not recommended. Any tips for the removal of the last stubborn bit? 🤔 Or would I be alright to just re-oil at this point?
View attachment 317991
Stay tuned! Looking to finish the engine bay, pull my idle valve control hose (that’s cracked) and start rust prevention in the trunk boot tomorrow! 9/23/2024 Will post! 👏🏻✨
If I'm honest I'd go back to stock. I had the same on my 2.8, made a great whooooosh sound but definitely restricted the engine a tad. The car felt much more responsive with a stock box and filter. Great sound though 👌
 

Pond

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Points
144
Location
Spaldingski, Lincs
Model of Z
Z3 project and E89 Z4
As long as you can see daylight through most of the mesh of the filter, with no obvious 'lumps' of crud, that should suffice. They rely on a bit of dirt , along with the oil, to catch small particles from going through. A perfectly clean filter is not the best at filtering (if that makes sense).

I must remember to clean and oil mine soon, otherwise I will forget when the time comes to fire it up in earnest. I have to have a cone filter on mine as the original airbox is inaccessible now.
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
If I'm honest I'd go back to stock. I had the same on my 2.8, made a great whooooosh sound but definitely restricted the engine a tad. The car felt much more responsive with a stock box and filter. Great sound though 👌
As much as I never thought I would, I’m genuinely considering this. You’re not the first person to recommend this to me. I have also heard horror stories of what happens when moisture gets into this filters. I’m keeping it posted in my brain 🧠 for sure. Thank you kindly for the input, it helps.
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
As long as you can see daylight through most of the mesh of the filter, with no obvious 'lumps' of crud, that should suffice. They rely on a bit of dirt , along with the oil, to catch small particles from going through. A perfectly clean filter is not the best at filtering (if that makes sense).

I must remember to clean and oil mine soon, otherwise I will forget when the time comes to fire it up in earnest. I have to have a cone filter on mine as the original airbox is inaccessible now.
I guess only bet would be to find one used in good condition. I bought my Z with the K&N filter already installed. I never had the original box. It is nicely placed in a cool spot, with a good “cubby” to keep it from overexposure to the rest of the bay. Might take someone up on the original airbox if I can find one near me, at least to have the option available to me for daily driving. I could always swap the intake when I’m going to play. Definitely recommend giving it a clean, it’s quick job. Thank you for your reply, I’ll be oiling and reinstalling after work today! Currently have a rag stuffed in it’s place 😂 just to keep anything, or anyone 🐁 out in the mean time.
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
UPDATE 9/29/2024 ✨🖤 SOFT TOP HAS SHRUNK ☠
A lovely member of our forum here Stephen brought up something I’ve yet to consider! My top has shrunk over time.
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I’ve done very little maintenance on my top ☠ aside from keeping it covered. Any advice on this is much appreciated. I know another soft top won’t break my bank, but the 10 hour installment might. I’m not sure if there is any other resolution to this other than a new top. Taking deep breaths, keeping a half cover on it until this issue is resolved.
 

andyglym

Shiny Dust Caps Make Your Zed Go Faster.
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British Zeds
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Feb 20, 2015
Points
231
Location
Moresby, West Cumbria, England
Model of Z
2.8 Roadster
UPDATE 9/29/2024 ✨🖤 SOFT TOP HAS SHRUNK ☠
A lovely member of our forum here Stephen brought up something I’ve yet to consider! My top has shrunk over time.
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I’ve done very little maintenance on my top ☠ aside from keeping it covered. Any advice on this is much appreciated. I know another soft top won’t break my bank, but the 10 hour installment might. I’m not sure if there is any other resolution to this other than a new top. Taking deep breaths, keeping a half cover on it until this issue is resolved.
Try wetting the soft top and keeping it closed for an extended period of time, it may come back.
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
Try wetting the soft top and keeping it closed for an extended period of time, it may come back.
Thank you kindly for your advice! It’s already closed, I have not attempted to take the top down on fear I’ll crack or rip it in its current condition. It shrunk on the car, hence the openings by my window. The opposition side looks doomed to the same fate if nothing is done. I was thinking of ordering RaggTop. Any experience with these type of top products?
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
UPDATE 10/01/2024 ✨💚🎃
I bought a brand new battery for the Z. It’s an H6-AGM Duralast Platinum. Let me preface this with a little back story.
Due to the ongoing issue with the hazards draining the old battery, it was ultimately removed from the car and misplaced.
Fast forward to about two weeks ago, attempting to get the car up and running again the only properly sized battery I had available to me, the terminals were reversed. So they wouldn’t reach. Naturally, we resisted fate and we rigged up two combo wrenches 🔧 on the terminals holding them, to be a ground. NOT RECOMMENDED, DON’T EVER DO THAT. But we got power throughout the car. Everything lit up, but we got no start. (That’s a whole other post) HOWEVER, we DID get power. So I’m sure some of you already have seen critical errors on my behalf, but that’s what learning is about right? 😅
We believe that action 👆🏻blew my main fuse.
Upon installing my shiny brand new battery, full of juice, made 09/24, imbued with a ton of power, I expected NO TROUBLE. And I was wrong. Unlike the first time, no lights. No hazards. Nothing. Cleaned up all my grounds, tested, I got power back in my grounds. I got spark. But no power throughout the car. The only conclusion I can come to myself is that our rig process blew my main fuse. The worst part is I know exactly where the ground and positive are in the hood for jumping the car, but it completely left my mind at the time. It’s my own fault, but now it’s time to fix it! I believe the main fuse is below the panel underneath the steering wheel, but I’ve got more homework to do! Any input & advice is greatly appreciated! I will be scouting the forums here in the mean time to see if anyone else has worked through similar issues. Thanks for reading ✨💚🎃
 

Pond

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Points
144
Location
Spaldingski, Lincs
Model of Z
Z3 project and E89 Z4
The 'main' fuse is 200 amp and is inline with the positive battery lead.
The other 'main fuses' are behind the left kick panel in the footwell on the left side (passenger on RHD cars, so should be drivers on LHD).
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before checking them!
 

Z3Baddie

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Points
28
Location
Long Island, NY
Model of Z
2.8 L ROADSTER
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I have the positive removed currently. If that 200amp is inline with my positive what am I doing to correct that? Am I cleaning up the connector, pulling it? I plan on getting under that kicker panel after work or tomorrow morning, depending on daylight.
I have work shortly, while I’m there I’ll pickup a fuse kit because going through the box in engine bay, I have a ton out anyway from sitting. It can’t hurt to just replace them. Mostly my 30 amps need to be swapped out anyway.
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Thank you for the responses, I genuinely appreciate it. It helps a lot. I have more homework to do, and recommendations are welcome! 😊Hopefull I’ll get power back through this thing.
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
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British Zeds
#ZedShed
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Dec 31, 2013
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Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
ALWAYS remove the Earth, Negative, (--) terminal and tuck it out of the way first. The way you have it in that picture would allow a spanner (wrench) or other metal item to short from the positive terminal clamp to the positive post on the battery. If you remove the earth terminal it cannot.
ALWAYS disconnect negative first and re-connect LAST.

Tony.
 
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