window regulator

[Gremlin]

Hi can any one tell me where I can get window regulators from other than main agents, I'd prefer new but good quality second hand would be good. I've not looked yet but I think I will need a new motor as well. All it dose when you press the switch is knock and clonck and dose nothing. So I'm thinking that the teeth on both regulator and motor are not meshing and probably worn off. I've looked on eBay seem to be the odd one for passengers door but not drivers door. I'm also looking for the quarter window and fram unless any one can suggest how to refix or replace the rubber insert the main glass slides up and down in. This was like it when I bought the car six months ago but I negotiated the price of car down along with other bits that need doing, but this is proving difficult to find. Any help or suggestions most welcome.

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

I'll have a second hand one if you can't get new.

 

[Gremlin]

Hi what sort of money would you want and postage and do you have the motor to go with it. Not sure where you are to I'm in Salisbury are you close enough for me to collect.
Roger.

 

[mrscalex]

I wouldn't assume it's the motor.

The regulator is mounted at 3 points to the door. These mounting points can shear off and surrounding metal can crack under the torque of the motor.

In this case the motor can be working perfectly but is unable to generate any movement of the arm as the mechanism is jammed up.

If that's the case it's either a difficult welding job or replacement door. I went for a new door.

 

[Gremlin]

Hi thanks that's cheered me up. Thought it would be the same as my discovery reg when that went bang it had just sheared a roller off. Oh well I will just have to bite the bullet and take door card off at weekend weather permitting. Still could be worse it could have jammed in down position lol.
Thanks again Roger

 

[mrscalex]

Indeed, you'll have to pop the door card off and see what's going on. I might be worrying you unnecessarily. I've found the pre-facelift cars seem to be the guilty ones for the mounting point issue.

On the plus side if it is the mounting points then replacement doors are neither expensive or particularly difficult to fit. You might even find one in the right colour that needs no paint. The fiddliest thing is probably swapping the lock barrels.

The other thing it might be is the infamous sliders. They're only a coupe of quid each and should be replaced while you're inside the door anyway along with a good lube of the sliders.

 

[Gremlin]

Hi again
Took my door card off yesterday to see what was going on with the window regulator and motor. When I got inside this piece was laying in bottom of the door, I think looking at it it's what the glass sits in, not sure how it's attached to regulator as yet.
2nd thing is I noticed are 3 possibly 4 holes that have had spots of weld done to fill them in and I'm not sure why. I've had my hand in behind there and felt all around and can't feel anything that seems like it should be bolted through them.
I've checked all the anchore points on door where the regulator is attached for rust and all are sound, I'm not at all sure why window dose not go up or down I can only presume that the runners and roller slides got dry and jumped out of runners.
It's those welds that concern me ( oh windows not worked since I got the car ) any thoughts what it could be would be greatfuly recived.
Roger.

 

[t-tony]

You're correct in thinking the piece in the first picture would be attached to the bottom of the glass. It may still have one on there and this one could well be left over from a previous repair. Not sure about the spot welds but if the lift mechanism has fouled on the door it could well have bent the door and this could be simply a repair for that.
I would definitely check all the wiring for damage inside the door while you have the door card off too. If in any doubt about the lift mechanism I would replace it, @spurs fan in a coupe (Andy) or @Synclare (Adrian) may be able to help here.

Tony.

 

[Gremlin]

Hi Tony
Thanks for the reply, I sat there and it got the better of me so I've been out and stripped the door out only to find that the welds attached a pressed metal frame to the door with not 4 but 9 spot welds. To this frame is bolted the motor along with the regulator. What it looks to me is that the slides have jammed up and the power of the motor has broken the spot welds lucky no other damage.
So I'm going to try and drill the spots out stick a couple of small bolts through to hold it and get it rewelded. Then put new clips and grease it well and hope it sorts it.
Looking at it now I don't think last person could spot weld as it's been done before looking at it.

 

[t-tony]

Hi Tony
Thanks for the reply, I sat there and it got the better of me so I've been out and stripped the door out only to find that the welds attached a pressed metal frame to the door with not 4 but 9 spot welds. To this frame is bolted the motor along with the regulator. What it looks to me is that the slides have jammed up and the power of the motor has broken the spot welds lucky no other damage.
So I'm going to try and drill the spots out stick a couple of small bolts through to hold it and get it rewelded. Then put new clips and grease it well and hope it sorts it.
Looking at it now I don't think last person could spot weld as it's been done before looking at it.

Ok Roger, good luck, hope you get it sorted ok. Don't forget to check the wiring well mate.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

Sorry, it does indeed sound like the problem I thought it might be. I would seriously think about replacing the door. It could be a lot less hassle and you may not get the regulator sat quite right with what you have in mind. As long it's original BMW paint there's a good chance the match will be a good one.

Either way, worth pulling the glass out, cleaning the runners and replacing the sliders. If you take the glass out apply inwards pressure to the quarter light glass as you bolt it up. If you don't, ie so it's not tight against the rubber it may leak.

Also, get yourself a role of butyl tape like this to put the foam moisture barrier back. The door really has to be very water tight otherwise you'll have leaks inside the car. No need to clean the old stuff off. Knead the foam with your thumb all the way round to bed it properly

This is the stuff I bought and it worked well (correct width).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Butyl-Tap...-Sealer-Bonding-Vans-Cars-Roof-/331877724002?

 

[Gremlin]

I now see what you ment by welds. I have now filed all the spot welds off flat and drilled them out on the bracket, I've also made up a template which I can line up with the spot welds on the door which I will drill out. Then I can attach the bracket to the door with a couple of small bolts and spot weld through the other holes, then take out th 2 or 3 bolts holding it and spot weld these holes. I think I may also just put a couple of small pan headed bolts in a couple of places between the welds for extra hold. Yes I have ordered the new clips for the runners, and now thanks to you have ordered the sealer. We will then hope it all works. Again thank you all for your input.

 

[Gremlin]

Ok Roger, good luck, hope you get it sorted ok. Don't forget to check the wiring well mate.

Tony.

Thank you for your support today, regards wiring I will take your advice on that and check it as it dose look a little suspect. Looks like the same person who tried to do the repair bodged the job completely and there are various bits of insulation tape which I will remove and check. Once again thank you.
Roger.

 

[t-tony]

Thank you for your support today, regards wiring I will take your advice on that and check it as it dose look a little suspect. Looks like the same person who tried to do the repair bodged the job completely and there are various bits of insulation tape which I will remove and check. Once again thank you.
Roger.

Very welcome mate, any time.

Tony.