Z3 Bolt Torque Info.

[Mazza]

@GazHyde

@Faheem showed me how to zip and upload this excel file which may be of some use to other forum members..

He suggested a sticky thread (???) and I understand that is something you have to do. (if you think worthwhile)

Anyway, hope others find it useful.

NB All the info has been gathered from the Bentleys Z3 Service manual and there is a full list, but for those that have an M44 manual Z3 (as I have) then I have separated our specific info onto a second page. (see tab at bottom of sheet)

 

[GazHyde]

Stickied

 

[e36Ballen]

mazza is the best

 

[ClassyCrusader]

Oh yeah this is good stuff actually

 

[pete-r]

Brilliant thanks Malc.

 

[Mike Fishwick]

Remember that torque settings are intended to be used by robots on initial assembly, with dry threads. Their use on a lubricated thread, such as an oil-coated sump plug, could result in thread damage.

For about sixty years I have always used Copa-Slip on wheel bolts of cars and motorcycles, and simply tighten them until they become 'solid' followed by maximum tightening with one hand, using the wheel wrench in the tool kit. In spite of dire warnings from people who have a torque wrench, but are devoid of mechanical sympathy, I have never had any come loose!

Use of manufacturer's torque settings on dry threads by tyre fitters is probably why many people cannot change their own wheels, and call out the AA etc.

 

[Lee]

Remember that torque settings are intended to be used by robots on initial assembly, with dry threads. .

What a load of tosh!

 

[Lee]

@GazHyde

@Faheem showed me how to zip and upload this excel file which may be of some use to other forum members..

He suggested a sticky thread (???) and I understand that is something you have to do. (if you think worthwhile)

Anyway, hope others find it useful.

NB All the info has been gathered from the Bentleys Z3 Service manual and there is a full list, but for those that have an M44 manual Z3 (as I have) then I have separated our specific info onto a second page. (see tab at bottom of sheet)

Hi mate could you add "Bolt torque" to your title. makes it far easier when we try search your thread

 

[Nodzed]

Hi mate could you add "Bolt torque" to your title. makes it far easier when we try search your thread

My mate did his apprenticeship at RR (jet engines) and has always warned me about torque settings being off on lubricated bolts etc as the settings refer to dry installation.

Worth a read.

Liberation from the Impact of Lubricants on Torque Readings

Lubricants will change the torque required to develop proper tension on the bolt—and that could affect the integrity of the joint. There is a better way...

www.smartbolts.com

.

 

[Delk]

It depends on what bolts you are dealing with. Head bolts say use engine oil. The ARP head studs in my engine use their lubricant and a different torque.

 

[Lee]

My mate did his apprenticeship at RR (jet engines) and has always warned me about torque settings being off on lubricated bolts etc as the settings refer to dry installation. Worth a read.

Liberation from the Impact of Lubricants on Torque Readings

Lubricants will change the torque required to develop proper tension on the bolt—and that could affect the integrity of the joint. There is a better way...

www.smartbolts.com

.

100% agree mate it's not what I was getting at. I spent 5 years building a nuclear reactor with a 25k torque wrench. I'm fully aware of the K-factor or nut factor depending what field you’re in.

I was alluding to his blanket statement about the torque figures being based on robots and assembly figures. Its a BMW Z3 not a Rolls Royce jet engine or a reactor. The lines are getting blurred and confusion follows.

 

[t-tony]

Remember that torque settings are intended to be used by robots on initial assembly, with dry threads. Their use on a lubricated thread, such as an oil-coated sump plug, could result in thread damage.

For about sixty years I have always used Copa-Slip on wheel bolts of cars and motorcycles, and simply tighten them until they become 'solid' followed by maximum tightening with one hand, using the wheel wrench in the tool kit. In spite of dire warnings from people who have a torque wrench, but are devoid of mechanical sympathy, I have never had any come loose!

Use of manufacturer's torque settings on dry threads by tyre fitters is probably why many people cannot change their own wheels, and call out the AA etc.

The main reason people find they cannot loosen their wheels nuts is because tyre fitters overtighten them with the the impact guns in the first place. Then, they “check” them using a torque wrench which clicks off immediately because they’re over tight.

Tony.

 

[Nodzed]

100% agree mate it's not what I was getting at. I spent 5 years building a nuclear reactor with a 25k torque wrench. I'm fully aware of the K-factor or nut factor depending what field you’re in.

I was alluding to his blanket statement about the torque figures being based on robots and assembly figures. Its a BMW Z3 not a Rolls Royce jet engine or a reactor. The lines are getting blurred and confusion follows.

Fair point mate. I still use the as you tighten "fart once and its tight, fart twice and its over tight" method.
BTW before you bring it up, when we did Pauls hubs I sharted, and we know what happened next

 

[Lee]

Fair point mate. I still use the as you tighten "fart once and its tight, fart twice and its over tight" method.
BTW before you bring it up, when we did Pauls hubs I sharted, and we know what happened next

We still use this method which you taught us younger generation in the shed! You never did say what happened when you farted the third time, especially for the older generation.

 

[Davros]

I'm replacing the valve cover gasket(s) on my 3.0i Z3 and have been exploring various on-line user observations about the bolt torque settings. I just want to thank all those who contributed to this very informative, valuable info, thread.

 

[Pingu]

I'm replacing the valve cover gasket(s) on my 3.0i Z3 and have been exploring various on-line user observations about the bolt torque settings. I just want to thank all those who contributed to this very informative, valuable info, thread.

Z3 valve cover bolts are VERY easy to over-torque because the bolt butts up to the head and only needs to be tight enough not to fall off. The valve gasket does not get compressed by the bolt. It is held in place by the bolt.

I use a screwdriver-type socket tool and a tight torque with that is all that you need.

 

[Rudyrov]

As I understand it from a Google search, BMW valve cover bolts are set to 6 ~ 8 FT/ LBS of torque, 8 ~ 10 NM. (figures are converted Ft LBS). So, my advice, don't "blue torque" those nuts, 6 to 8 ft-lbs is at best snug.

 

[Davros]

Thanks for the heads up, Rudyrov & Pingu. I shall take due care when pinching the bolts snug, tightening them in the correct sequence. There is much debate about do or don't torque; and the difference in torque between dry thread lubricated thread. &whether or not to use gasket sealant. As I see it the benefit of calibrated torque, using an accurate wrench, is that you're pretty close to achieving the same 'torque' on each bolt, and a fine smear of RTV silicone sealant should belt & brace the seal .

For those interested in the various torque settings, have a look at the Z3 torque list.zip posted by Mazza (above) in Nov. 2019

 

[Z3Baddie]

Thought I’d add the available general torque information from the Haynes manual. Hope it helps and adds to the existing post!
Appreciate the information!