Yes RAL. As far as I’m aware I thought the brake lines are the same across the Zeds except the front and rear rubber brake lines. The three way union According to the real oem diagrams is for the 1.8, 1.9, 2.8 and ///M
How To Guide Another rear end refresh
- Thread starter mrscalex
- Start date
It’s different on the M’s. The brake lines run above the beam allowing for quick release of the subframe. You jus lift the callipers out the way. Non M’s the lines drop in the middle and run under the arms. I guess the 3 way block is a tidy way of distributing the lines
Well RAL 1000 was no use. Too sandy and not enough green. In fact similar to this
So I’m having a RAL 7002 mixed up. If no good on my car I think I’ll refer to some military vehicles and try to find the closest match from that and get the name of the colour. It’s definitely in the military palette somewhere.
I actually had a car fly past this morning in a similar colour which is bizarre, not least because it’s a bit yuk. But it was gone before I saw it. Possibly a Vauxhall coupe.
Axle beam brackets after Deox. Next to no visible rust left.
And after a coat of Rustbuster FE-123. Note how the open side looks no different. But the enclosed side has turned black. Which is the FE-123 finding rust in the pitting and stabilising.
James has been chipping away at the diff.
And I've been trying to find a paint shade to match the underside light green e-coat. Here's a new shell as it comes out of the e-coat bath. A slightly more green shade than on the Z3 but similar.
And after a coat of Rustbuster FE-123. Note how the open side looks no different. But the enclosed side has turned black. Which is the FE-123 finding rust in the pitting and stabilising.
James has been chipping away at the diff.
And I've been trying to find a paint shade to match the underside light green e-coat. Here's a new shell as it comes out of the e-coat bath. A slightly more green shade than on the Z3 but similar.
Diff casing coming along a treat. Hope you don’t mind me adding this.
For the final rust clearance I used this acid https://www.rust.co.uk/product/phos-kleen-a-industrial-use-rust-remover-127
followed by
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/phos-kleen-b-rust-remover-28
to add a layer of protection followed by zinc primer. Then I used two pack epoxy paint a rubber paint underneath followed by a top coat of satin smooth hammerite black. Hopefully should take some years before the rust comes back.
For the final rust clearance I used this acid https://www.rust.co.uk/product/phos-kleen-a-industrial-use-rust-remover-127
followed by
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/phos-kleen-b-rust-remover-28
to add a layer of protection followed by zinc primer. Then I used two pack epoxy paint a rubber paint underneath followed by a top coat of satin smooth hammerite black. Hopefully should take some years before the rust comes back.
I’m gradually putting together a complete swap set of rear end parts. With the idea being to greatly reduce elapsed time for completing a car.
Cleaning up large components is a frigging mare and heavy time consumer. So the big stuff is getting blasted and coated. I’ve got a brilliant place doing the parts for me here in Swindon.
Here’s my list of how I’m trying to tackle it.
Swap out
Cleaning up large components is a frigging mare and heavy time consumer. So the big stuff is getting blasted and coated. I’ve got a brilliant place doing the parts for me here in Swindon.
Here’s my list of how I’m trying to tackle it.
Swap out
- ARB (satin black)
- Axle beam brackets (satin black)
- Drop link brackets (silver)
- Springs (satin black)
- Spare wheel carrier (satin black)
- Caliper carriers (silver)
- Calipers (silver)
- Fuel tank straps (satin black)
- Trailing arms (satin black)
- Axle beam (satin black)
- Hubs
- Driveshafts (satin black apart from diff flanges)
- Diff (satin black apart from cover plate & diff flanges)
- ARB bushes
- Handbrake shoes
- Handbrake shoe fitting kit
- Brake flexi hoses
- Brake rigid pipes
- ARB brackets (silver) - only about £4 ea
- Trailing arm bushes
- Axle beam bushes
- Wheel bearings
- Shock mounts
- Diff bush
- Drop links (silver)
- Brake pipe securing clips
- Brake union supports (silver)
- Driveshaft nut & securing plate
- Axle beam bracket bolts (not self-lock but replace with hex bolts M8X22)
- Trailing arm nuts (self-lock)
- ARB bracket nuts (self-lock)
- Drop link nuts (self-lock)
- Drop link bracket nuts (self-lock)
- Axle beam securing nuts
- Handbrake cables
- Spring seats
- Handbrake adjusters
- Brake pads (ie not needed if done recently)
- Brake discs
- Dust shields (satin black)
I’ve been progressing all the small parts. Some of these are expensive from BMW so I was determined to reuse what I could. The only fixing I’m replacing in the end is the ARB mounts as they are only about £3.50 ea.
The axle beam brackets are sprayed up now. Finish not perfect but the main thing is they are protected with several layers of paint now. Next time round I’ll get them blasted/powder-coated.
The rest has been going in the Deox in batches.
First through was a drop link bracket. £10 new from BMW but x2 = £20 and soon adds up.
Then the trailing arm bolts, here with a coat of Rustbuster FE-123.
Then the rest, here in 2 piles.
The nearest pile is plated in something that comes off as a black cloud in the Deox. And you get a film that dries off you can’t remove by washing. That includes the handbrake linkage/adjusters. No idea what that is. The bracket on the top is in the wrong pile. It holds the handbrake cable at the drop link. £10 for new ones of these with 2 required. Very easy to bend as they come off but they will straighten out.
The rest just cleans off normally. The large parts are the hub handbrake cable guides. These were in a nasty way.
The 2 piles will be going back in the Deox for one final dunking until Tue while I’m in Swansea. Then they’ll have the FE-123 and will be painted up in a range of different finishes to make them as factory matched as possible.
The axle beam brackets are sprayed up now. Finish not perfect but the main thing is they are protected with several layers of paint now. Next time round I’ll get them blasted/powder-coated.
The rest has been going in the Deox in batches.
First through was a drop link bracket. £10 new from BMW but x2 = £20 and soon adds up.
Then the trailing arm bolts, here with a coat of Rustbuster FE-123.
Then the rest, here in 2 piles.
The nearest pile is plated in something that comes off as a black cloud in the Deox. And you get a film that dries off you can’t remove by washing. That includes the handbrake linkage/adjusters. No idea what that is. The bracket on the top is in the wrong pile. It holds the handbrake cable at the drop link. £10 for new ones of these with 2 required. Very easy to bend as they come off but they will straighten out.
The rest just cleans off normally. The large parts are the hub handbrake cable guides. These were in a nasty way.
The 2 piles will be going back in the Deox for one final dunking until Tue while I’m in Swansea. Then they’ll have the FE-123 and will be painted up in a range of different finishes to make them as factory matched as possible.
Last edited:
Part 11 on here.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CN12-EUR-02-2001-Z3-BMW-Z3_22i&diagId=34_0930
34411153880
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CN12-EUR-02-2001-Z3-BMW-Z3_22i&diagId=34_0930
34411153880
Cheers I was looking under the anti roll bar section.
Out of the Deox today after final 3 day dunking. Didn't need that long but I was away in Swansea so it might as well have it. All looking 100% rust free. Although by the time they have a had a rinse off the flash rusting starts straight away. That's fine as the FE-123 likes to have something to grab onto.
James wire brushing after final removal from Deox.
Job done and awaiting FE-123.
James wire brushing after final removal from Deox.
Job done and awaiting FE-123.
Last edited:
Not much different from when I had the headlight surrounds sand blasted off my Capri many years ago. The guy who did it told me to get some paint on them asap to stop the corrosion starting.
Tony.
Tony.
Not quite a full set but this is everything completed so far - in rust-proof coating but not yet painted.
Spreadsheets as we all know are the answer to nearly everything so I dumped in an entry for everything I could think of then scanned realoem to see if I'd forgotten anything. Of course I had - there are a lot of bits! And there will be more again when I go to put it together. So another bucket of Deox is now doing it's stuff on the forgotten parts along with a second set of components for the next rebuild we do.
The spreadsheet tells me part number, description, price, colour to paint and whether I'm having the parts blasted/coated (the big stuff), buying new (some things like nuts are not expensive) or deoxing/painting up myself.
We're hoping that with so much attention as above the actual re-assembly is going to be fairly quick. Though we expect to spend a good time cleaning up and repainting the chassis.
Spreadsheets as we all know are the answer to nearly everything so I dumped in an entry for everything I could think of then scanned realoem to see if I'd forgotten anything. Of course I had - there are a lot of bits! And there will be more again when I go to put it together. So another bucket of Deox is now doing it's stuff on the forgotten parts along with a second set of components for the next rebuild we do.
The spreadsheet tells me part number, description, price, colour to paint and whether I'm having the parts blasted/coated (the big stuff), buying new (some things like nuts are not expensive) or deoxing/painting up myself.
We're hoping that with so much attention as above the actual re-assembly is going to be fairly quick. Though we expect to spend a good time cleaning up and repainting the chassis.
I hope you have a good memory for where all those bits go !
I aim to start mine in a months time......and seeing all those parts laid out, it looks bloody frightening
I aim to start mine in a months time......and seeing all those parts laid out, it looks bloody frightening
That’s about half of the fixings involved as other parts will be new like handbrake spring kit plus the bits I forgot.I hope you have a good memory for where all those bits go !
I aim to start mine in a months time......and seeing all those parts laid out, it looks bloody frightening
How it goes back - I’ll be fine. Done enough work in that area now and it’s a simple setup.
We've got back on this in the last few days. It's been a long winter lay off as I just can't be done with working on cars now until the temperature establishes itself over 10 deg.
Anyhow, the front to back brake pipes were the last thing to be removed and will be replaced in single kunifer sections. Then the job I wasn't looking forward to, cleaning the underside off. It had the Cif and dish brush in a bucket scrub and then a steam clean. That was interesting in a garage but we successfully built a water shield/funnel out of a large tarpaulin.
Very pleased with the result. It's in flippin good nick for a 20 year old vehicle with minimal corrosion to see to. And yes that is the colour all Z3s are underneath all the dirt. Its from the factory electro-plate dip. Complete b*gger trying to find something in the correct colour but I think I have something close.
Anyhow, the front to back brake pipes were the last thing to be removed and will be replaced in single kunifer sections. Then the job I wasn't looking forward to, cleaning the underside off. It had the Cif and dish brush in a bucket scrub and then a steam clean. That was interesting in a garage but we successfully built a water shield/funnel out of a large tarpaulin.
Very pleased with the result. It's in flippin good nick for a 20 year old vehicle with minimal corrosion to see to. And yes that is the colour all Z3s are underneath all the dirt. Its from the factory electro-plate dip. Complete b*gger trying to find something in the correct colour but I think I have something close.
That looks mega clean
It's a tidy car. It would need to be as that's the one that had the £850 new loom and many hours spent installing it.
Forgot to change my trainers to work ones
Bit of liquid soda crystals, washing machine and they were looking great too
Just to tie things together. I continued this rebuild thread under my original wiring loom thread here.
zroadster.org
Wiring loom replacement project
Well after a couple of false starts the project has now started in earnest. Story so far: 2.2 bought as a project with damaged wiring loom Caused by boot loom of doom Short circuit. Fuse blew. Fuse replaced with cheap Chinese fuse. Fuse didn't blow next time and loom heated up and melted in...
zroadster.org