I don’tWhat amazes me is how you know how to put it all back together. It's black magic to me.
...... but luckily, there’s lots on here that do 
Bognor Lean-to Project
- Thread starter Mazza
- Start date
...... but luckily, there’s lots on here that do 
And that saved me the trouble Malc.
Tony.
Tony.
That hidden tin eating thing, and that's why everyone needs to check the inner sills bet they looked good before you took the outers offSpent 3 hours wrestling with the 8mm AF screws that seem to fix all the panels and sills on.
What a nightmare......
but in the end after using an angle grinder, multitool, and lots of swearing got everything off.....
Only to find the tin worm had been very active......
There was no wheel arch liner on the front o/s so found loads of crud behind the sill.
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Now need to get the interior out and see what sort of condition that is before I do anything with this mess !!
The only up side is that although it looks pretty grim, I did tap over it all the rusty areas with a hammer and its still sound underneath.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.5 (2003)
When it comes to replacing all those 8mm screws I have replace them with stainless self tappers with the addittion of stainless washers to increase the head size as the new screw headsize hasn't got a shoulder on them, I used them on the edge of the front wing liner to replace the rusty originals on my Z4.
4.8 x 16mm is original size with the stainless self tappers you might want to grind off the drill tips on them and maybe reduce the length to 13mm when you choose the size. I would have used them when I checked behind the outer sill on my Z3 but replaced a few with oem ones, wish I had used stainless then.
and
4.8 x 16mm is original size with the stainless self tappers you might want to grind off the drill tips on them and maybe reduce the length to 13mm when you choose the size. I would have used them when I checked behind the outer sill on my Z3 but replaced a few with oem ones, wish I had used stainless then.
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Not actually working on the car, but had to go into the garage this morning...........and finally the musty/smoky smell seems to have dissipated. The carpets are nearly dry and all the wiring and floor pan is dry as well. Cant wait to get back to it now.
But currently living in squaller as had to shift all the bedroom and lounge furniture into other rooms as having two carpets fitted this afternoon,
Then another two days to put it all back.......,
Bloody hard work on your own, but worth it in the end......I hope
But currently living in squaller as had to shift all the bedroom and lounge furniture into other rooms as having two carpets fitted this afternoon,
Then another two days to put it all back.......
,Bloody hard work on your own, but worth it in the end......I hope
Not actually doing anything on the car but been playing with the endoscope I got as a birthday present ( and no I haven't tried sticking the camera up my bum !!! )
I have been looking inside the sills around the jacking points etc, and lots of surface rust in there.....
picture quality not to good, probably me not keeping the camera still.
Jacking point
looking out through the jacking point
the end of the sill cavity
jacking point
I will need some kind of spray treatment to make sure its all treated???
)I have been looking inside the sills around the jacking points etc, and lots of surface rust in there.....
picture quality not to good, probably me not keeping the camera still.
Jacking point
looking out through the jacking point
the end of the sill cavity
jacking point
I will need some kind of spray treatment to make sure its all treated???
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Last edited:
Malc as a belts and braces I’m going to use this https://www.rust.co.uk/product/dinitrol-rc900-rust-converter-224 and then apply most likely s50 over the dried product.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.5 (2003)
What about this https://www.rust.co.uk/product/fe-123-rust-converter-4
Sold in larger quantities.
My inner sills were fine when I checked behind the cover sills, didn't need any converter just applied Clear Waxoyle on the inners and Black Waxoyle on the inside face of the outers.
Sold in larger quantities.
My inner sills were fine when I checked behind the cover sills, didn't need any converter just applied Clear Waxoyle on the inners and Black Waxoyle on the inside face of the outers.
Not much done over the last two weeks, after having had two carpets fitted, last week , Hospital appts this week ( MRI scans are a load of fun ), and spraining my wrist....but I’m being a brave little soldier.....
I will have to find some light jobs on the car, like cleaning stuff........but I bought some rust remover ( wont say which one yet, until I have given it a good test.). I couldn’t resist just trying it out on a bit of the sill just to see.....so a quick run over with a flap wheel on my angle grinder, and paint the stuff on.
This is the front passenger side sill before.
This is after
Only did the face side as I couldn’t get to clean round underneath....but the side area has come up ok.
If I can get the external areas to clean up ok, then I will find a way to clean out the inside areas and paint those.
), and spraining my wrist....but I’m being a brave little soldier.....I will have to find some light jobs on the car, like cleaning stuff........but I bought some rust remover ( wont say which one yet, until I have given it a good test.). I couldn’t resist just trying it out on a bit of the sill just to see.....so a quick run over with a flap wheel on my angle grinder, and paint the stuff on.
This is the front passenger side sill before.
This is after
Only did the face side as I couldn’t get to clean round underneath....but the side area has come up ok.
If I can get the external areas to clean up ok, then I will find a way to clean out the inside areas and paint those.
.
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Cant do much yet, but did clean the rust marks off the carpet. ( which is a lot lighter now all the water had dried out!!!)
They will still need to be steam cleaned but leave that for another day
Can anyone tell me what this is for??
In the switch panel behind the seats at the rear of the centre console, there is this....
Left side is the roof switch, the blank fell out of the right side, but what is the indicator in the middle for? I think it would glow red.
I may move the roof switch to the front if there is room, as you have to be a contortionist to use it!!!!
They will still need to be steam cleaned but leave that for another day
Can anyone tell me what this is for??
In the switch panel behind the seats at the rear of the centre console, there is this....
Left side is the roof switch, the blank fell out of the right side
, but what is the indicator in the middle for? I think it would glow red. I may move the roof switch to the front if there is room, as you have to be a contortionist to use it!!!!
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.5 (2003)
Its the red alarm system light that should flash when the alarm is set, some move it to the front with the roof switch as well if you have enough blanks up front.
Thank you. There doesn’t appear to be an alarm system on the car so probably redundant. One thing less to worry about
Hi my 1998 2.8 has this switch for the roof and one up front by the heated seat switches also for the roof ?
Back to it, and on with some work today.....
5 hours of derusting
Fitted some clear tubing in the vacuum hose to poke in the sills and suck out all the rust old clips etc !!!
But....at least I now know that the sills are ok. Gave every inch a whack with a club hammer and got a nice metallic ring....and no dull thuds
So angle grinder with various attachements and an electric drill and removed all the surface rust. Treated with a rust remover.
Inside the sills were cleaned, vacuumed and treated as well.
I will check tomorrow and make sure all ok. Then start on all the treatments.
One thing I did notice while underneath....
Tank straps need replacing..... I was told a while back that they are not available any more ,,
Wonder where I can get some
5 hours of derusting
Fitted some clear tubing in the vacuum hose to poke in the sills and suck out all the rust old clips etc !!!
But....at least I now know that the sills are ok. Gave every inch a whack with a club hammer and got a nice metallic ring....and no dull thuds
So angle grinder with various attachements and an electric drill and removed all the surface rust. Treated with a rust remover.
Inside the sills were cleaned, vacuumed and treated as well.
I will check tomorrow and make sure all ok. Then start on all the treatments.
One thing I did notice while underneath....
Tank straps need replacing..... I was told a while back that they are not available any more ,,
Wonder where I can get some
Nobody likes a crusty bottom Malc 
Inner sills treatment today.....
RC900 spray. A 400ml can just enough to do both sill cavities. The nozzle with the long tube was an extra 3.99, expensive ...but worth it to get a decent coverage inside the sills.
I took some pictures with my endoscope before and will compare tomorrow with the after effect once its dried.
Then go over the external areas again with some FE-123.
Hopefully that will sort the sills then I can get on to the fun stuff......rear end removal.....Yippee!!!! )
( actually having read all Lee’s threads and done it once already, its not so daunting.....although there are differences between a 1.9 and this 2.8 that I have noticed already. ( ie, there is a tube which passes down through the N/S trailing arm and which will have to come off before the subframe is dropped, and I have no idea what it is!!!!
RC900 spray. A 400ml can just enough to do both sill cavities. The nozzle with the long tube was an extra 3.99, expensive ...but worth it to get a decent coverage inside the sills.
I took some pictures with my endoscope before and will compare tomorrow with the after effect once its dried.
Then go over the external areas again with some FE-123.
Hopefully that will sort the sills then I can get on to the fun stuff......rear end removal.....Yippee!!!!
)( actually having read all Lee’s threads and done it once already, its not so daunting.....although there are differences between a 1.9 and this 2.8 that I have noticed already. ( ie, there is a tube which passes down through the N/S trailing arm and which will have to come off before the subframe is dropped, and I have no idea what it is!!!!
Pu
Tony.
Picture of tube Malc ?Inner sills treatment today.....
View attachment 176629
RC900 spray. A 400ml can just enough to do both sill cavities. The nozzle with the long tube was an extra 3.99, expensive ...but worth it to get a decent coverage inside the sills.
I took some pictures with my endoscope before and will compare tomorrow with the after effect once its dried.
Then go over the external areas again with some FE-123.
Hopefully that will sort the sills then I can get on to the fun stuff......rear end removal.....Yippee!!!!
( actually having read all Lee’s threads and done it once already, its not so daunting.....although there are differences between a 1.9 and this 2.8 that I have noticed already. ( ie, there is a tube which passes down through the N/S trailing arm and which will have to come off before the subframe is dropped, and I have no idea what it is!!!!
Tony.
Tube comes as picture.
So you just pull the button off the top of the can and connect the tube.
The end of the tube has a plug with slots in it so the gloop sprays out sideways....
You can just about make them out.
I’ll blow some brake cleaner through it to clean it out and be able to use it again. [ if needed !,,)
The other thing is that the garage stinks with the fumes from this stuff.......needs to be done in a well ventilated area.
So you just pull the button off the top of the can and connect the tube.
The end of the tube has a plug with slots in it so the gloop sprays out sideways....
You can just about make them out.
I’ll blow some brake cleaner through it to clean it out and be able to use it again. [ if needed !,,)
The other thing is that the garage stinks with the fumes from this stuff.......needs to be done in a well ventilated area.
I meant the tube passing through the trailing arm which you didn't recognise mate.
Tony.
Tony.