M54 broken thermostat bolt

[mrscalex]

Yep, could have done without that.

I've trawled all over the place and I'm fairly certain I know all the usual methods for getting these things out. But it's a case of which is the best based on your experience in this particular location?

I have about 1/4" protruding but the mole grips just slip off as it's so stuck. Perhaps I should invest in some really good quality ones - I think mine are Draper, or perhaps not even that good? In fairness I've never had issues with them before, apart from really stuck bolts...

I've just ordered some left hand drill bits and I'm hoping they'll bite on the bolt and with the bonus of a bit of heat may shift it.

I don't really want to use a stud extractor in case it breaks. And welding a nut on it is going to be a last resort and require professional help.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Anywhere near a Halfords? Not a question I'd normally ask, but you might find this useful. http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-impact-stud-extractor-1-2-drive . If you're thinking of spending money on new mole grips this thing might be a better bet, used something similar in the past and it worked. A bit of heat won't go amiss, either.

 

[t-tony]

I bought one of these off Mac Tools a few years ago and used it once. Expensive (£25) tool box decoration.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

I like the look of that. Thank you.

I suspect there isn't enough bolt left to grip onto. But it looks like it will be a useful addition to the tool kit anyway.

 

[mrscalex]

I bought one of these off Mac Tools a few years ago and used it once. Expensive (£25) tool box decoration.

Tony.

How would you remove it in the workshop @t-tony ?

 

[t-tony]

Do your Mole grips have curved or rounded jaws Rob. I only use flat jawed ones for these type of jobs and for moving stuck brake pipe unions. I would "set" the Mole grips ready to fit the stud then heat it red hot, or as hot as you can get it, then apply the grips and turn it slightly inwards before trying to remove it. I had a brake pipe union (11mm) which the brake pipe spanner (thicker jaw) would have rounded off at work today but l released it with flat jawed Mole grips first which means I can re use the union (and pipe) on Monday.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

Do your Mole grips have curved or rounded jaws Rob. I only use flat jawed ones for these type of jobs and for moving stuck brake pipe unions. I would "set" the Mole grips ready to fit the stud then heat it red hot, or as hot as you can get it, then apply the grips and turn it slightly inwards before trying to remove it. I had a brake pipe union (11mm) which the brake pipe spanner (thicker jaw) would have rounded off at work today but l
Releasing it with flat jawed Mole grips first means I can re use the union (and pipe) on Monday.

Tony.

They are curved so that's a good tip thank you.

I only have a plumbers blow torch. Is there a risk working in this area of damaging the cylinder head with heat? Or anything else?

 

[t-tony]

No it shouldn't cause any problems mate, just be wary of any wires etc. in the area you're heating. By the way use as small a flame as you can but use the point of the inner blue cone of the flame as that is the hottest part of the flame. Also a gentle tap on the end of the broken stud before fixing the grips will help. Good luck with it Rob. Let us know how you get on.

Tony.

 

[handsomejackuk]

Rob, I am assuming the thermostat is off.. and you only have the small amount of stud left...? or is the thermostat still attached... sorry for the obvious question...

Al.

 

[mrscalex]

No it shouldn't cause any problems mate, just be wary of any wires etc. in the area you're heating. By the way use as small a flame as you can but use the point of the inner blue cone of the flame as that is the hottest part of the flame. Also a gentle tap on the end of the broken stud before fixing the grips will help. Good luck with it Rob. Let us know how you get on.

Tony.

Thank you.

@handsomejackuk the thermostat is off.

 

[handsomejackuk]

hmmmmm tricky... but as Tony said, other than that its drill it out and retap or easy outs....

http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html

 

[handsomejackuk]

if the head was off it would be a lot easier... the other option if Tonys doesnt work is to grind the stud flush with the cylinder head centre pop it with a centre punch accurately run a good quality drill slightly smaller than the tapping size of the thread and hope for the best you may get the thread out... but its gonna be so hard with the engine in and the head on to get good access to that area...

all the best with it and keep us informed, I have seen people tap the stud ( sort of chase it around with a screwdriver if that makes sense... or even file a slot in it and use a screwdriver but it sounds as though theres not a lot of material left there to play with...

Al.

 

[mrscalex]

if the head was off it would be a lot easier... the other option if Tonys doesnt work is to grind the stud flush with the cylinder head centre pop it with a centre punch accurately run a good quality drill slightly smaller than the tapping size of the thread and hope for the best you may get the thread out... but its gonna be so hard with the engine in and the head on to get good access to that area...

all the best with it and keep us informed, I have seen people tap the stud ( sort of chase it around with a screwdriver if that makes sense... or even file a slot in it and use a screwdriver but it sounds as though theres not a lot of material left there to play with...

Al.

I cut a slot in the protruding stub already. It broke a Halfords Professional screwdriver!

I might have a go at chasing it round. But it's not very big to chase. I chased a roll hoop anchor torx bolt where the centre had gone recently and that worked a treat. Lots to work on. Very different scenario here though.

But I'm going to start with a decent pair of flat jaw locking pliers. Using heat if I have to.

 

[mrscalex]

hmmmmm tricky... but as Tony said, other than that its drill it out and retap or easy outs....

http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html

That's a very good page. And exactly why I don't really want to use a stud extractor!

 

[handsomejackuk]

I cut a slot in the protruding stub already. It broke a Halfords Professional screwdriver!

I might have a go at chasing it round. But it's not very big to chase. I chased a roll hoop anchor torx bolt where the centre had gone recently and that worked a treat. Lots to work on. Very different scenario here though.

But I'm going to start with a decent pair of flat jaw locking pliers. Using heat if I have to.

i never used stud extractors i suppose i been lucky....bit of patience is whats needed and stop and have a good look at it...

that front timing case cover can be removed pretty easily anyway cant it ? i took it off my 1.9 dont know whether your engine would be similar if you can get the rocker cover off maybe you can take the timing cover off and take it somewhere to get it drilled out.. last resort though probably

 

[t-tony]

Use heat and flat jaw grips Rob. You may only get one chance at it.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

Use heat and flat jaw grips Rob. You may only get one chance at it.

Tony.

That's what I'm thinking.

 

[mrscalex]

@t-tony

Sorry for the paranoia. But how long should I heat the bolt for taking into consideration it's a plumber's torch?

I bought some flat jaw mole grips today. In fact I bought 2. I saw some really long ones in Machine Mart and figured if I can fit them in they'd work like a breaker bar. They must be 15" long. I might be kidding myself they'll fit. But I'm sure they'll come in useful for something.

 

[mrscalex]

These are the beasties. Can't believe the grip is going to be as good as a shorter pair. Can't try out until be in Swindon Tue.

 

[t-tony]

The grips I have are the "Visegrip" brand from Mac Tools and are roughly 8" long mate. As for heating the stud it's hard to say but I would give it 2-3 minutes at first and try it.

Tony.