Remove front struts - Torque required please

[Cooper]

Can someone please advise what torque is required to remove the 2 x lower bolts that hold the front strut onto the wheel hub? I ask because I would like to do this job myself and I want to buy and use an electric corded impact torque wrench to do it [I don't have air]. I also need the actual torque specs to reinstall if that isn't too much to ask!

I have been able to move them slightly with a spanner and a lot of force but jeez, if I slip I will be in hospital. Not interested in getting a breaker bar for the same reason lol.

BTW my Bosch Blue impact driver/wrench can [so it claims] go up to 180 Nm and will not budge those bolts. I put the wheels back on and used the Bosch and tested it with my torque wrench at 112 Nm and it tightened the nuts even more. I suspect the actual output was about 100 Nm.

Cheers, everyone

 

[Steve Medlock]

I know you say its not what you want but a decent breaker bar has to be the safest and easiest way to deal with this sort of thing. The longer the bar, the less force you have to provide to give the same moment.

Not quite a breaker, but this is my favourite tool when working on my Z3:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Britool-E...822189&hash=item1c77ae12ef:g:YXUAAOSw5cNYQD8L

 

[Cooper]

I know you say its not what you want but a decent breaker bar has to be the safest and easiest way to deal with this sort of thing. The longer the bar, the less force you have to provide to give the same moment. QUOTE]

Thanks I appreciate the information. I have a long torque wrench but don't want to risk damaging it when pulling bolts off. I am hoping to brrrraaaap it off in two seconds without risking injury or damage!

 

[mrscalex]

Honestly, you just want a 2ft breaker bar. You'll be laughing your socks off at how easily it moves bolts and wondering if it's actually a magic wand. If your hands are anywhere near the business end you are doing something wrong. They should be 2ft away at the end of the bar. Wear some leather gloves if you want to be doubly sure. I'm not sure using a powerful gun would be that safe anyway if you aren't completely comfortable with some tools. Or even if it would actually do the job efficiently, eg access.

Don't be put off by how hard it's been with a ring spanner or wrench. In these circumstances they are about as effective as a stick of celery.

If you've already rounded the bolts get yourself some Irwin Bolt Grips.

You need to replace both lower bolts and the upper bolt routinely on reassembly.

All lbs/ft.

U-bracket to control arm 31
Drop link to u-bracket (through bolt) 22
Drop link to sway bar 44
Sway bar to chassis 16
Engine mount 33
Wishbone to subframe 62
Wishbone to steering arm 45
Steering to subframe 31
Steering arm to strut 78
Tie rod to steering arm 33
Strut top 16
Lollipop 34
Road wheel 90
Brake disc 12
Front subframe 77
Steering wheel 46
Brake carrier 81
Brake caliper 23

 

[Steve Medlock]

The tightening torque is 107Nm (78 ft lb) but obviously the 'loosening' torque will depend upon what is was previously done up to, how rusty it is etc etc.

Up to you but I wouldn't buy an impact wrench just to undo 3 simple bolts. This is one of the relatively easy jobs on a Z3.

 

[Cooper]

Thanks guys, looks like the breaker bar is the way to go. BTW I have the car up on stands so access those bolts by turning the hub left and right. That should be fine right? The job itself does seem straight forward but cant believe how tight they are. I have been soaking them in WD40 and I can get them to move with no stripping yet. I don't have a lot of experience so when the bolts move and don't release quickly I get nervous - i stripped a vanos bolt once and that was most unpleasant! lol

Oh, and looks like I will have to get some new bolts also! I will charge up my impact driver and have another go at it before I spend on a breaker as it should pull 180 Nm. You can use 1 hand easy using it as there is hardly any reverse momentum when using these gadgets - it's not like using a drill that gets caught half way through the job.

I appreciate the encouragement. I will give it a go.

 

[mrscalex]

The £20 I spent on my breaker bar has without doubt been the best investment in any tool ever.

The only slight gotcha is at 2ft long you sometimes get clearance issues. But I've done that job myself several times using a 2ft breaker bar.

 

[Cooper]

The £20 I spent on my breaker bar has without doubt been the best investment in any tool ever.

The only slight gotcha is at 2ft long you sometimes get clearance issues. But I've done that job myself several times using a 2ft breaker bar.

Just up on stands be ok? Access is fine?

 

[mrscalex]

Just up on stands be ok? Access is fine?

Absolutely. Just expect to crawl around and get dirty!

And turn the hub in and out to help. Locking the steering again afterwards.

 

[MRH1966]

I have done this job twice now on both our zs. A good fitting socket, an 18 inch bar and a few wacks with the big hammer should get it moving.
Had to use the hammer for a few turns on one of mine as \i think they might use 'lock tight' on them!!
Easy job, just make sure you undo the anti roll bar from the wishbone first as this allows for more movement.

 

[handsomejackuk]

330nm crankshaft pulley holding bolt 4ft steel bar and some very gentle persuasion... 17mm impact socket... lock crank by inserting pin through starter ring/.......and my local mechanic said you wont shirft that by yourself Wanna Bet..... technique is whats needed with thight bolts...

 

[t-tony]

When you get it out a couple of turns, apply freeing oil then tighten back up. Keep repeating this, it is the ONLY way to work the freeing oil into the threads, ask @Sean d . I have an electric "windy gun" too and it won't shift these, my comp. air gun does with ease though.

Tony.

 

[Cooper]

Good news, got them all out with the breaker bar. Was relatively easy, and yeh, the struts are stuffed and the car was really just resting on the springs. Thanks everyone.

 

[mrscalex]

Good news! Have gotta have faith as my musical hero George Michael once said

 

[Dickymint]

A little tip for bolts that have locktite on them like the calliper bracket bolts is use something like a butane torch for 2 mins just to heat them up and they will come free I think its like 300c for blue and 600c for red or somewhere near that

 

[Cooper]

Success! All back together and the car drives totally different! The breaker bar made the job easy along with the encouragement of course!

Do I need to get a front wheel alignment? It feels perfect.??????

Cheers,

 

[mrscalex]

Success! All back together and the car drives totally different! The breaker bar made the job easy along with the encouragement of course!

Do I need to get a front wheel alignment? It feels perfect.??????

Cheers,

Yes. Mine is getting done today. It also feels fine pottering around at 40mph. But I can see it's off by sight and this might affect things in for example high speed hard braking.

 

[bluesaz3]

Hi copper just reading your thread mate, a bit of pipe over a spanner or wrench adds loads more leverage and force to even the shortest tool and have often gotten me out of a mess .Did you go for coil overs ? or ome struts.Cheers ,Mick.

 

[Cooper]

Hi copper just reading your thread mate, a bit of pipe over a spanner or wrench adds loads more leverage and force to even the shortest tool and have often gotten me out of a mess .Did you go for coil overs ? or ome struts.Cheers ,Mick.

Hi. Neither! I got the Bilstein B8 PRO [for sports suspension]. They went on pretty easy, look great, and feel awesome. I have ordered the rears just today with the rear top mounts as well.

For reference purposes, if you have the ///M sports suspension such as on the 3.0i versions you get these:
Bilstein B8s
front right is 35-044031
front left is 35-044024
rears is 24-023863

Cheers,

 

[bluesaz3]

Hi,Backs are easy as to do best to undo inside top mounts first !,The hardest part is getting in the parcel shelf. will have a goggle to see what you have fitted
Cheers