sticky gear change

[GZed]

but now have a good feeling that it will improve with use.

UPDATE - 100 miles or so last weekend, and 100 miles or so the previous weekend improved things so much that I'll have to start a new thread, something like "silky smooth gear change" or "hot knife through butter"! So - in my experience with a 2.8 manual gearbox, changing the oil for Red Line D4 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid definitely works, (and as others have said is not a waste of money in any event). Opie oils also recommended as a supplier - nearly half the price of Euro Car Parts even with next day postage added.

 

[Oddly Godly]

I think I will get some Redline D4 ATF and change my oil, my 1999 2.8 has done 75000 and is most probably still using the oil it left the factory with 20 years ago. The gears were a bit notchy in 1st and 2nd but a weighted storm gear knob has sorted that out. The lever when cold doesn't return to centre from 5th but it is ok when warm. It doesn't bother me as I hardly get in to 5th round here anyway. Maybe if it needs a clutch in the future I will get it done then. Am I right in thinking I will need to order 2 litres of oil for the gearbox.

 

[GZed]

I think I will get some Redline D4 ATF and change my oil, my 1999 2.8 has done 75000 and is most probably still using the oil it left the factory with 20 years ago. The gears were a bit notchy in 1st and 2nd but a weighted storm gear knob has sorted that out. The lever when cold doesn't return to centre from 5th but it is ok when warm. It doesn't bother me as I hardly get in to 5th round here anyway. Maybe if it needs a clutch in the future I will get it done then. Am I right in thinking I will need to order 2 litres of oil for the gearbox.

Yes, you need to buy two bottles, although as it’s an American product the bottles are US Quarts (946 ml). Nevertheless you end up with about 1/4 bottle left over
If you use the ‘garden hosepipe threaded through the engine bay’ method of filling, make sure to poke the end of the hose as far as it will go into the filler hole, and trickle the oil in very slowly to avoid spillage. Helps if one person under car holds hose in place & observes while another trickles it in. Also prepare for spillage from the U-bend in the hose when you remove it. Using smaller diameter tubing such as used for syphoning home brew wine would probably eliminate these minor snags

 

[Oddly Godly]

Thanks for the reply, I am hoping to use a big syringe I have used on my old MX5. I will undo the filler first just to check the tube on the end will reach before I drain it.

 

[t-tony]

The garden hose pipe method works very well as the gear oil is quite thin and as long as you don't overfill the funnel you won't spill. This also works for the diff. oil too working through either rear wheel arch.

Tony.

 

[Chris Hunter]

I don't claim to be an expert, But I have owned my 3.0i since 2011 and as it stands its total mileage is short of 37000. With such a low mileage I was a bit disappointed with the ZF gear change, it was very vague and had a rough or harsh feeling when selection was made. My cure was to change the shift detent springs. The latest pins have re profiled nose and the kit of three pins including teflon bushes seals and circlips was around £50.00 from BMW. These pins are located at the top of the box and receive very little lubrication and run virtually dry. This problem is overcome by the teflon bushes allowing easier rise and fall, and the re profiled noses allow the pins smoother transmission from one detent to another. My gearbox is now silky smooth as it should be. Like I say, I am not a Z3 expert, and can only report on my own findings.
this may give food for thought.
Blue skies Chris

 

[Dino D]

I don't claim to be an expert, But I have owned my 3.0i since 2011 and as it stands its total mileage is short of 37000. With such a low mileage I was a bit disappointed with the ZF gear change, it was very vague and had a rough or harsh feeling when selection was made. My cure was to change the shift detent springs. The latest pins have re profiled nose and the kit of three pins including teflon bushes seals and circlips was around £50.00 from BMW. These pins are located at the top of the box and receive very little lubrication and run virtually dry. This problem is overcome by the teflon bushes allowing easier rise and fall, and the re profiled noses allow the pins smoother transmission from one detent to another. My gearbox is now silky smooth as it should be. Like I say, I am not a Z3 expert, and can only report on my own findings.
this may give food for thought.
Blue skies Chris

Good update.
Was a box out job?

 

[Chris Hunter]

Yes, I am afraid it is and if doing it, it is a good time to change your clutch plate. when I did mine the complete job, Clutch and gearbox detent pins cost around £220.
Removing the gear box is technically not too difficult, but requires a decent bit of space under the car, and 2 people it also requires long extension bars. When working on the gearbox several mandrels are required for inserting the new teflon bushes to the correct depth. I manufactured a full set of these which I can loan to anyone if required.
blue skies
Chris