Z3 wreck repair build-up (QLD Australia)

[fuzz]

Hi All,

Quick Update - The panel shop have said the car will be ready at the end of this week. Can't wait for that to happen, I can put all the panels back on and the interior back in. I also got myself a Nakamichi Stereo for the car which I've always wanted so I'll fit that up. Then onto a few more bit's and pieces and the registration. After that i'm pretty keen to do a 6 speed swap and either some work to this motor or something more involved.

Have a question though I was hoping could be answered. In doing the repairs I had to take out the passenger seat and the interior carpet. The car still had to be driven around the shop and on and off the tow truck so as you would know it's now thrown up the airbag light. I did expect this after reading the seat bushing replacement thread but it was pretty much unavoidable.

I have myself both the 20 pin and OBD connector and USB and i'm wondering if there is software I can get to clear this myself? With the VW I can simply get the VAGCOM software and reset. Is there an equivalent which will allow me to get this removed rather than going to a workshop? (Apart from the specialised airbag removal tools on ebay)

Cheers,
Fuzz

 

[oldcarman]

Hi@fuzz, looking forward to answers to your questions as I have the same airbag light problem. Also, when you get to these speed change would you please do an article with parts list, pics and description. Where have you found info on doing the swap and is an adapter required and if so are you doing your own or buying one. I like the idea but just not sure if the work is worth the end result. All my driving is hwy. so economy is the name of the game. Please post pics as you reassemble. JIM

 

[fuzz]

Hi@fuzz, looking forward to answers to your questions as I have the same airbag light problem. Also, when you get to these speed change would you please do an article with parts list, pics and description. Where have you found info on doing the swap and is an adapter required and if so are you doing your own or buying one. I like the idea but just not sure if the work is worth the end result. All my driving is hwy. so economy is the name of the game. Please post pics as you reassemble. JIM

I've only had a quick look at it but seems like it's not going to be that difficult to do. As always cost comes down to what you're willing/able to do yourself. Here is some quick links but I have seen what you're after in other forums:

http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/screen/prod/store_code/6134/product_code/6SP000.htm

http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/articles/E46M36spdtransmissionswap.htm

http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/2013/02/02/swapping-a-e46-m3-6-speed-gearbox-into-an-02-e368-m-coupe/

for me it's going to be worth while as I've currently got an auto and if i'm going to do a V8 swap or forced induction on my engine there's no point having the auto.

 

[oldcarman]

Thanks for those links, very interesting reading. JIM

 

[fuzz]

no worries - I'll document everything I do but it's likely it won't be until mid next year.

I'm keeping my eye out for a V8 with a manual box already attached from a wrecked 545 or M5.

 

[miller1098]

Reset my seatbelt light with this off eBay £20

 

[Cooper]

Geez @fuzz looks like you found a Z3 petrol cap and are rebuilding a speed demo from that!

 

[bonzo]

Reset my seatbelt light with this off eBay £20View attachment 10781

Yeah, this works for me, as I think I have a loose connector under the seat that occasionally triggers the light.
But each time I reset it I have to carry out the procedure twice! Is it me?

Hey, this is my 1000th post!........... How 'bout that.

 

[GazHyde]

But each time I reset it I have to carry out the procedure twice! Is it me?

I sometimes find the B800 reset tool I have doesn't work first time, so probably not just you

 

[fuzz]

Reset my seatbelt light with this off eBay £20View attachment 10781

I was hoping to get some software that could do a bit more - read diagnostics info and change settings (like the VW). But if that's the was it's done then I'll grab one of those. Cheers

 

[fuzz]

Geez @fuzz looks like you found a Z3 petrol cap and are rebuilding a speed demo from that!

that is correct I get a bit carried away.

Nice avatar by the way... I'm looking for a farm down there. It is magic albeit chilly.

 

[fuzz]

She's back from the paint shop - have to fit all the panels up properly and the interior and keep searching for the elusive side skirt!

 

[Cooper]

that is correct I get a bit carried away. Nice avatar by the way... I'm looking for a farm down there. It is magic albeit chilly.

When you come down for a look contact me as you will have a place to stay

 

[Lee]

That looks so clean, good job!

 

[fuzz]

Thanks guys - almost on the road now. Just a couple of inspections to clear.

Quick question: the fan only works on 4. I get nothing in settings 1-3. Anyone had this or know if there is a fix without replacing the whole unit?

Cheers

 

[Brian H]

Quick question: the fan only works on 4. I get nothing in settings 1-3. Anyone had this or know if there is a fix without replacing the whole unit?

You need a blower resistor, they control the fan speed on settings 1 to 3. If you have AC the blower resistor is located underneath the windscreen scuttle plate.

the resistor simply pulls out and you push in the new replacement. When you are in there, clean the 2 drains that sit in the bottom of the bulkhead, year of rubbish can collect in them.

Some more pics for reference: -

HTH

Brian

P.S. Your car is looking great, I love that colour

 

[zedonist]

Ha Brian beat me to it, what you need to know is that it's blown, replacing it will get it working again, but it will also blow again, normal culprits are corroded motor bearings, so I would check them out, free them and lube them up

 

[Brian H]

Ha Brian beat me to it, what you need to know is that it's blown, replacing it will get it working again, but it will also blow again, normal culprits are corroded motor bearings, so I would check them out, free them and lube them up

Not heard of the motor bearings Rich. I know the solder joints in the heater blower resistor can become dry joints and therefore give up the ghost.

Nothing wrong with giving the bearing a quick squirt of lubricant whilst you are in there though

 

[zedonist]

It's a common problem Brian, happens on VW a lot, the resistor is actually a thermal fuse, they blow due to heat from excess current draw, usually due to bearings on the motor, if the Z was standing for a period then good chance the bearing or shaft have corroded a bit

 

[fuzz]

Awesome! Cheers guys.

Apologies I didn't search as I would normally but I'm stuck on an island where I only have sporadic patchy reception.

Looking forward to fixing that motor and resistor up in a couple of days and updating!