Rebody 250 California build thread for dummies

[Pond]

I found the drivers side ram sat on top of the intake pipe when the bonnet was down, I have also added an extra brace from the bonnet bracket straight down to the existing BMW bodywork on both sides ,it makes the bracket a lot more solid.
You maybe able to just see them in this picture driver side comes down from rear hinge bolt and passenger side from front hinge boltView attachment 339771

I have a K&N filter so the intake assembly sits further down.
It's not the fixing brackets I have an issue with, it's the fact that you close the bonnet from the top and to pull it over the force of the gas ram at full extension seems like it is trying to flex the bonnet. My rams have the same charge as Steve's (I checked), so I don't think the rams are the problem. As I said; they are a detail so can wait until much later.

 

[Duncodin]

How do you F guys get at the fuse box? My 507ish bonnet will eventually tilt forward much like yours but I'll still be able to lift the whole front shell when more access is required.

 

[Pond]

How do you F guys get at the fuse box? My 507ish bonnet will eventually tilt forward much like yours but I'll still be able to lift the whole front shell when more access is required.

You can get to the big fuse box on the nearside fairly easily. The problem I have found is getting the lid off, as the inner GRP wing is above it.
I have cut off the rear 'hook' of the fuse box lid and use gaffer tape to secure it at the rear. I wasn't over keen on this idea, but have given in to the 'kitcar' attitude of 'bodge it wherever you can't see it'.

But, then again, my Z3 is so awesome it will never blow a fuse.

 

[Pond]

How do you F guys

Also, there is no need to be so rude.

 

[Pingu]

The bonnet rams were a major engineering challenge for me, even although my bonnet uses the standard hinges. The solution appears quite simple, but the effort to find that simple solution was significant .

The access is significantly restricted with the cars with the "tip forward" smaller bonnets.

If I were to fit one of them, I would also make the whole front clam removable, or tiltable.

 

[Pond]

I now know why many don't change the dashboard on a Z3 rebody!
There is zero room (and I mean none) for everything to fit behind, there are a million electrical connections to be re-routed/ altered and the heater control wires are akin to wrestling with a very angry snake. Doing all this in 32c heat doesn't exactly help either!

BUT......
once it's all done it makes such a difference and gives much more of a 'period' look and feel. Mine is very authentic, as the fuel gauge is a bit 'sticky' so you have to tap the glass to get it moving (very in keeping with an old car IMO).
My water gauge lamp is playing up again (I thought I had sorted this).

I have to thank @Pingu for his wiring diagrams and @Jezza for so much help with the stuff which was different with my car (as I have the later electronics which are different to the M52 cars).

The wiring looks a complete mess ATM (cos it is) but it all works. It has all got to come out again (oh goody) to finish the dash moulding, so will be tidied up once in permanently.

 

[Pingu]

I like the key

 

[Pond]

I like the key

which one?

 

[Zephyr]

Spaghetti a' la pondi

 

[Pingu]

which one?

I've assumed that it is a key in the centre dash, on the right, next to the five dials. It looks very retro.

 

[Pond]

I've assumed that it is a key in the centre dash, on the right, next to the five dials. It looks very retro.

Yes that is the new ignition. It's not very flash TBH, just a Car Builder Solutions switch with a couple of basic cheap keys.
The BMW key is on the far right of the dash next to the light switch (rectangular slot as the key isn't in there in the photo). I cut the barrel right down and glued the internals together so it can't move around with the key in (just for the EWS immobiliser).
Originally I cut the slot to the same shape as the BMW key but it didn't work as if it was neat the key rubbed against the GRP and if it was looser it looked awful. So it is what it is now.

 

[Dxbolton]

View attachment 340629

and this is why I kept the original dash in my 507! This terrifies me and whilst I could do it, I’d rather avoid the stress.
I really admire and appreciate the work involved here, it’s worth it

 

[Pond]

View attachment 340629
and this is why I kept the original dash in my 507!

Is there a dash moulding available for the 507? Even if there is, where would you get 'period' BMW gauges?
Actually there is one place you could get them made, but they would need detailed specs and also would charge a fortune for a 'one off'.

 

[Pingu]

Is there a dash moulding available for the 507? Even if there is, where would you get 'period' BMW gauges?
Actually there is one place you could get them made, but they would need detailed specs and also would charge a fortune for a 'one off'.

If it's who I'm thinking of, they charge a fortune anyways .

 

[elevensies]

I found the drivers side ram sat on top of the intake pipe when the bonnet was down, I have also added an extra brace from the bonnet bracket straight down to the existing BMW bodywork on both sides ,it makes the bracket a lot more solid.
You maybe able to just see them in this picture driver side comes down from rear hinge bolt and passenger side from front hinge boltView attachment 339771

this si the best rocker cover top iv seen for these replicas, i think i would have gone red though... nice job.

 

[Duncodin]

Is there a dash moulding available for the 507? Even if there is, where would you get 'period' BMW gauges?
Actually there is one place you could get them made, but they would need detailed specs and also would charge a fortune for a 'one off'.

No. There is no 507 style moulding. I'm gonna make my own.

Link to my build thread so as not to clog up Pond's thread with 507 related guff

 

[Pond]

Finally got tyres fitted to my wire wheels today and put on the car.
It has been a bit of a marathon and not a small PITA (as seems to be the way with everything I do on this car).

My Z3 is a 3 litre; I chose this specifically as the power output of the M54 almost matches the original 250 from 1962.
I then learned that the 3 litre has larger front discs and brake calipers than all the other normal Z3s. I knew that the 15" wire wheels wouldn't quite fit over the front calipers without grinding the rear of the calipers down a small amount. I did this months ago and trial fitted the wheels. All good.
As I was ready for my new wheels to go on, I thought now would be a good time to change all the discs and pads for new items (which I've had for 18 months).
So I changed all the brakes yesterday (not the quickest job as the old discs really didn't want to come off). I then trial fitted the wheels again. They didn't fit and were fouling against the calipers on the front. Due to the new pads and discs being thicker, it pushes the calipers out further than they were.
So out came the grinder again. I wasn't happy about grinding that close to my beautiful new paintwork, but I had little choice without completely stripping the calipers off the car. Even that wouldn't work, as I needed to grind a bit, then try them, then grind a bit, etc etc.

I finally got both front wheels to clear the calipers. Then I realised there is nowhere for the tyre fitters to put balancing weights, as the calipers are so wide they leave no space on the inner rims of the wheels. The only place to put weights, was going to be the front outside rim and that was NOT happening.

So after visiting my preferred tyre fitter, the only solution was to use clip on, slim line weights on the inner lip. I wasn't keen on this as the weights were going to damage the chrome and cause issues later. My tyre fitter (Stefan from Bush Tyres in Spalding) was amazingly helpful in all departments and fitted my tyres without so much as a scratch to the chrome anywhere. He used another old wheel as a template for the weights, which was a brilliant idea.

Got the wheels home and fitted them, hoping that the weights didn't hit the bleed nipples on the fronts. Luckily they don't and all is well.
Never known fitting some wheels and tyres on a car to be such a pain.

 

[Pingu]

Wheels really suit it.

You may be able to sort the rear ride height by installing the thinnest spring pads, but I doubt it. You will probably need adjustables.

Front doesn't look too bad. The gap on the front can only be closed using higher profile tyres if you want the look to remain. The radius of the tyre should match the radius of the wing. It does on the front, but not yet on the rear.

But, the wheels really suits it

Make a note of all the height corrections and wheel size changes you make, as you will need them when it comes time to adjust the tracking. They need the height from the bottom of the wheel to the wheel arch to put into the computer. Your tracking will be wrong if you use the measurements on the kit car. You need the equivalent Z3 measurements for your suspension heights.

For instance, I tell the tracking guy to subtract 23mm on the rear and 20mm on the front when he is setting up the tracking on my car...

 

[Pond]

I've got adjustable coilovers being delivered any day and being fitted next weekend. That is the ONLY way I can reduce the rear ride height by anywhere near enough. I still don't understand why it is sitting so high. Everything is fitted as it is supposed to (body panels etc), the car was sitting fine when it was a Z3 and nothing has been changed so far. I just don't get it.

 

[Duncodin]

I've got adjustable coilovers being delivered any day and being fitted next weekend. That is the ONLY way I can reduce the rear ride height by anywhere near enough. I still don't understand why it is sitting so high. Everything is fitted as it is supposed to (body panels etc), the car was sitting fine when it was a Z3 and nothing has been changed so far. I just don't get it.

Ignoring the arches for a moment - how does the car as a whole sit? ie measuring at the jacking pads to the ground is the car level? If the car/chassis is level then lowering just the rear it"ll look a bit weird.