Rebody 250 SWB build

Pond

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Points
144
Location
Spaldingski, Lincs
Model of Z
Z3 project
I will start with the bodywork soon,would you recommend me to bake the kit in paintshop oven before or after the bodywork is done?

The kit is also very thin in few places so I will laminate and strengthen it to achieve sufficient thickness.
My paintshop, who only do GRP, told me there is no need to bake and didn't.
Colour choice is not something that anyone can give advice on....the beauty of building a car is that you can paint it whatever colour you like.
Although I personally think if it's anywhere near looking like a Ferrari it should be a shade of red!
I think all these GRP panels are thin and thick in different places. Mine is 2mm in some spots and 8mm in others and a variety in between. Spending a lot of time and effort strengthening the thin spots won't really give you any advantage IMO, but if you want to.......
 

mittaw

Dedicated Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2024
Points
29
Ahhhhhhh the choice of colour. That decision kept me awake for many nights.... Blue and white are both good chpices in my opinion. I like the blue but white is a little more forgiving on the bodywork finish. The darker you go the more imperfections will show but the blue will be good. Also depends on the finish you want ie metalic or solid as for metalic you'll need base coat and clear, whereas white you can do solid gloss 2k and polish up. If it we're me id do the light blue. I think the soft top version looks great in light metalic colours and that blue is fantastic. It will catch the sunlight lovely.

As for baking definately but it depends on how much body work you'll do. I didn't bake mine before the bodywork as didnt have access to one, but once the majority was done i placed it outside each day during the summer heatwave so over about 3 -4 weeks it got a good cooking at 28+ degrees on some days and got no cracks or blisters. I believe its best to bake beforehand so you dont lock in moisture but mine seems to ve fine. Its also coped with cold temps over the winter so i think ive covered both bases.

Make sure you seal the underside of fibreglass where its exposed, ie under rear and front areas to stop water getting in any areas there and to help prevent star cracks in paint from stones hitting the underneath. I used Wunderseal ....awful stuff to apply but works a treat once on.

Good luck with the paint choice and build, im going to starr painting mine this month. For colour choice i just went for it and that made the choice go away... What can go wrong..........look forward to seeing yours progress
 

AndersFIN

Regular Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2023
Points
21
My paintshop, who only do GRP, told me there is no need to bake and didn't.
Colour choice is not something that anyone can give advice on....the beauty of building a car is that you can paint it whatever colour you like.
Although I personally think if it's anywhere near looking like a Ferrari it should be a shade of red!
I think all these GRP panels are thin and thick in different places. Mine is 2mm in some spots and 8mm in others and a variety in between. Spending a lot of time and effort strengthening the thin spots won't really give you any advantage IMO, but if you want to.......
Thanks!This is noted.However my kit is thin as eggshell, especially in the rear around the rear lights. There is a change that it will crack and I would like to avoid that if possible.

Agree your point on the red colour - especially on your 250 California. In my view the only right colour 😊

Let’s see what I decide. Engine bay has already been painted with the blue color when engine was out so it would be the easiest.
 

AndersFIN

Regular Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2023
Points
21
Ahhhhhhh the choice of colour. That decision kept me awake for many nights.... Blue and white are both good chpices in my opinion. I like the blue but white is a little more forgiving on the bodywork finish. The darker you go the more imperfections will show but the blue will be good. Also depends on the finish you want ie metalic or solid as for metalic you'll need base coat and clear, whereas white you can do solid gloss 2k and polish up. If it we're me id do the light blue. I think the soft top version looks great in light metalic colours and that blue is fantastic. It will catch the sunlight lovely.

As for baking definately but it depends on how much body work you'll do. I didn't bake mine before the bodywork as didnt have access to one, but once the majority was done i placed it outside each day during the summer heatwave so over about 3 -4 weeks it got a good cooking at 28+ degrees on some days and got no cracks or blisters. I believe its best to bake beforehand so you dont lock in moisture but mine seems to ve fine. Its also coped with cold temps over the winter so i think ive covered both bases.

Make sure you seal the underside of fibreglass where its exposed, ie under rear and front areas to stop water getting in any areas there and to help prevent star cracks in paint from stones hitting the underneath. I used Wunderseal ....awful stuff to apply but works a treat once on.

Good luck with the paint choice and build, im going to starr painting mine this month. For colour choice i just went for it and that made the choice go away... What can go wrong..........look forward to seeing yours progress
Thank you for this.

I will have a local resource from boatbuilding industry to help me out straightening the shapes on the body and also ensuring that right products (epoxy filler,grp filler) are being used.

I have found that most of the work will be around the trunk, front hood, the rounded front fenders which are flat in some places(as you also have experienced with your kit) - and then doors of course 😁

I have also thought about cutting away 40mm from the door, ”lifting” the sills by approx 35mm, and make a seamless connection between the rear arches and side skirts.This is however very labour intensive and might be that I am so fed up with all the GRP work so that I will just forget about it 😃
 
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