Rear trailing arm removal. Help!!

Z3I

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I'm going through the process, as no doubt many other have. of replacing and rebushing the rear trailing arms. All is going well on removal, I've successfully disconnected and removed everything except the 2 bolts each side that bolt the trailing arm to the cross beam each side. What's the trick in undoing, and removing these 2 bolts. The access and area seems impossible! Really appreciate some tips before the Zed finds itself in the bin! Thanks guys, and merry xmas and hny!
 

Jimmy Weston

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Jack up the car,fit two axle stands either side on the outer subframe,then use the trolley jack to lightly jack up the rear trailing arms to take the pressure off the bolts, it's been a few years since I done mine,and I think I removed and replaced my rear anti roll bar linkages at the same time.i@Antm72 his doing his rear subframe project at the mo,he may be able to shed some light on your dilemma .
Thanks
Jimmy.​
 

t-tony

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I'm going through the process, as no doubt many other have. of replacing and rebushing the rear trailing arms. All is going well on removal, I've successfully disconnected and removed everything except the 2 bolts each side that bolt the trailing arm to the cross beam each side. What's the trick in undoing, and removing these 2 bolts. The access and area seems impossible! Really appreciate some tips before the Zed finds itself in the bin! Thanks guys, and merry xmas and hny!
Some pictures of the bolts you refer to would save any misunderstanding? Also when removing suspension arms on any vehicle, the bolts come out most easily when the arm is lifted to it's normal operating height.

Tony.
 

Z3I

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HI Jimmy, yes, all that done, anti roll bar, shock absorber, handbrake cable, 6 torx screws to diff. It's just the 2 major fixings to the beam that I'm struggling with!
 

Jimmy Weston

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Mmm not to sure then, maybe a little heat on them ,and a large cracking bar may work hopefully .
Jimmy.
 

Antm72

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Can they not be un done and attach so grips to the bolts raise the arms and wiggle out ?
 

Z3I

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There is so little room available. Seems an open ended spammer is the only option on the nut next to the beam fixing. Inner fixing more of a problem. Just how have others removed these bolts?
 

t-tony

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Thanks for the pictures. To get the two bolts out from each side which the arm "swing" on you will need some decent tools. Once loosened by a long socket bar a "Tite-Reach" would be helpful. Do you have any compressed air tools at all? As I previously said those bolts will come out most easily when the arm is lifted to it's normal working height, ALSO, the arm should be held at normal working height before the nuts and bolts are tightened back up. This is so there is no twist in the bushes when in working conditions.

Tony.
 

t-tony

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Personally I would lower the main beam off the car. The beam bushes do look to be in good order judging by how high the beam is sitting on those bushes.

Tony.
 

Z3I

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Yrs, I've read a few times of only tightening at normal height. I'll persevere at getting a decent socket on the bolt side, and a spanner on the nut then. Not an easy job!
The car has only 37k miles, but mostly in Scotland. I'm replacing the arm, as it's the incorrect type from a previous repair.
 

t-tony

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IF you can get on them, the correct way is to loosen the nut not turn the bolt, until the nut is released. Not always easy I know, but it works better.
I have a set of these extra long "flat/straight ring spanners, just for this type of job. Also very useful for holding Aux. belt tensioners etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pc-Pro-...421093&hash=item4b112df27f:g:FisAAOSw9GhYky4W

I bought one of these a year or so ago, brilliant piece of kit. Only used it last week to remove the front lower suspension mountings on a Z4.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tite-Rea...731784&hash=item238e551ea5:g:oeUAAOSwcgNZE0Ib

Tony.
 

5harp3y

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Probably easier to lower the whole beam than to try and get the arms off seperately.

Your only 4 bolts and 2 nuts away from that anyway
 

Lee

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We do these two ways. Either split the arms from the beam and remove in 3 parts (like you are) or lower the whole assembly as one.

Seeing as you only need one arm removed it makes sense, Two ways we undo those huge bolts.

1) with a ratchet breaker bar one click at a time

2) double spanner method. Both are very fiddly but achievable.

Also it's harder because you can only get a socket on the head of the bolt not the nut.
 

t-tony

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We do these two ways. Either split the arms from the beam and remove in 3 parts (like you are) or lower the whole assembly as one.

Seeing as you only need one arm removed it makes sense, Two ways we undo those huge bolts.

1) with a ratchet breaker bar one click at a time

2) double spanner method. Both are very fiddly but achievable.

Also it's harder because you can only get a socket on the head of the bolt not the nut.
That's why I mentioned the "Flat" ring spanners Lee. I have far more tools than most and having the right one for the job does make it easier. Just because you can get a socket on the bolt doesn't mean that's where you start to undo the fixing, you can hold it too while you crack the nut with the tool needed.

Tony.
 

Lee

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That's why I mentioned the "Flat" ring spanners Lee. I have far more tools than most and having the right one for the job does make it easier. Just because you can get a socket on the bolt doesn't mean that's where you start to undo the fixing, you can hold it too while you crack the nut with the tool needed.

Tony.
Exactly how I do it :thumbsup:
 

spurs fan in a coupe

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@Z3L if you need to borrow any tools give me a shout, I've got the long ring spanners in @t-tony link, I'm sure I've had lots of extension bars on these bolts before to get a ratchet on from past the wheel arch. Horrible to get off.
 

Grumps

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Sounds a bit of a mare. Good luck getting it sorted.
 
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