Rear trailing arm removal. Help!!

[gookah]

ALSO, the arm should be held at normal working height before the nuts and bolts are tightened back up. This is so there is no twist in the bushes when in working conditions.

Tony.

I am not convinced. They are not a torsion bar, they are designed to stop fore and aft, side to side, and up and down movement, not resist rotational movement. After all they get greased to prevent squeaks, and squeaks are from movement around them rather than twisting.
Mine started squeaking even though the grease was used. A couple of squirts with 3 in 1 and the squeak has gone.

 

[Antm72]

The bush itself does not rotate in the arm but the centre pin is pinched and rotates with in the bush it squeeks if iys not lubricated correctly as it snags the bush.
Some bushes are made with a cross hatching pattern to help them hold grease to avoid this happening.

 

[t-tony]

The point is that the rubber bush itself is twisted by the up and down movement of the arm. If you start with it in the central unloaded position it gives equal movement up and down . If you fix it in the fully down position as soon as you lift it to even fit the shock absorber bolt you have put twist into the rubber to start with, then if the arm rotates upwards by putting the weight of the car on the wheels it only rotated further upwards twisting the rubber even further. Makes sense to me.

Tony.

ps. This is something I was tought as an apprentice, not just something I dreamed up.

 

[Antm72]

I think the obove would apply to the stock bush but poly comes in 3 pieces so it works differently as all parts are independant compared to the one piece OEM one

 

[hard top]

ps. This is something I was tought as an apprentice, not just something I dreamed up.

Back in 1926 ....

 

[Z3I]

@Z3L if you need to borrow any tools give me a shout, I've got the long ring spanners in @t-tony link, I'm sure I've had lots of extension bars on these bolts before to get a ratchet on from past the wheel arch. Horrible to get off.

I'm back from my New Year break now, and back to thinking about this job. I'll have a chat with you tomorrow Andy, when I pick up some parts from you. Doesn't sound easy!

 

[Z3I]

Thanks all for the hints and tips. I think I'm going to refurb both sides, so rear beam removal may be the way?

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

Thanks all for the hints and tips. I think I'm going to refurb both sides, so rear beam removal may be the way?

You'll probably (hopefully) see one dropped on the floor when you stop by tomorrow. I've made a good start on loosening all the bolts.

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

There's been threads on how to drop the rear beam out, but if you need pics let me know.

 

[Antm72]

Are you dropping the beam Andy ?

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

Are you dropping the beam Andy ?

Yes going to remove (hopefully) and sell. Fairly confident on both fronts!

Just not looking forward to the weight of it!

 

[Dino D]

There's been threads on how to drop the rear beam out, but if you need pics let me know.

View attachment 71321

Bit late but I thought I should tell you don’t need to dismantle the lights, bumper, bootlid etc to get it off

 

[Antm72]

Will you get to a pair of tank straps Andy?

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

Will you get to a pair of tank straps Andy?

I noticed how rusty they were when I was under the car yesterday, I doubt I'll ever get a good set to be honest

 

[Antm72]

I noticed how rusty they were when I was under the car yesterday, I doubt I'll ever get a good set to be honest

No problems if its just all surface rust i can get them cleaned up even a set to take and have them engineered would be good as i can not buy new.

 

[Z3I]

No problems if its just all surface rust i can get them cleaned up even a set to take and have them engineered would be good as i can not buy new.

After poking about under my car, Ive realised that everything that was given a light coat of black paint, mostly the running gear of the car, has now got a film, or worst, of rust. Those tank straps on mine could do with being replaced too. have you taken them off yet to see how bad they are? I'm also trying to source a good pair, and I think only the short one is still available?

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

Tank straps

Rear beam, brakes, diff, arms etc

 

[Gremlin]

It can be done in car but as some one else said at the point you will be at it would probably be easier to drop the beam. I had mine on the ground and to get those long bolts that go through the bushes I had to drive them out. I did find on my own it was easier to put back in bits. Beam and diff first then the swinging arms.
Shame you are not closer I’d have given you a hand as I’ve got all the big flat combination spanner’s plus sockets to fit.

 

[Chazzy]

I'd go with dropping the whole beam. There's the two main nuts underneath the beam studs, then there's two hex head bolts on each side holding in the mount - I found these near on impossible to get out due to them being rusty and easily rounded off. Make sure you soak them in plusgas etc first, then give them loads of heat before even attempting to undo. The beam should then drop quite easily.

While you're at it, I would check the diff mount for any cracks along the welds and also the state of the boot floor. Along with replacing the trailing arm bushes, I'd also do the beam bush, although this are tricky to remove. I ended up making a tool to do it.

As others are said, it's easier to put the beam and diff back in first and then refit the trailing arms.

 

[Cooper]

@Chazzy , when you say put in the beam first with the dif and then the rear trailing arms....

- do you mean re-attach the dif to the rear beam, hoist up and secure the diff mount and rear beam mounts leaving the trailing arms with the hubs attached hanging down [with drive shafts still attached], then attach the trailing arm back one by one?

Or something else, like having the rear hubs disconnected from the diff output shafts to the hubs, up goes the difff and beam, then reattach the trailing arms and then the 2 x drive shafts to the hubs...

I ask in ignorance but I will be doing this same thing very soon by myself. I will be welding in the camber and toe adjusters in though as well as changing all bushings including the rear drop links.