Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build
- Thread starter MisterP007
- Start date
Hi PinguI really like the idea of the electric window winder.
Not my idea, a lot of the DNA builders have done this and was fitted to the "turn-key" DNA California.
On the subject of more electrics:
For the window switches I used Durite 0-656-05 rotary switches, these are momentary on - off - momentary on. I wired them directly back to the existing electric window switch wiring (centre console). The other method is to wire it into the electric mirror wiring but I wanted to keep it on the correct circuit for fuses etc.
I discovered that if you undo the door electrical connector there is a 1.5x1cm opening at the bottom which the 3-wires passed through OK, pulling them through the rubber cable protector between the door and the body was a fiddle but OK. Routed them out above the footwell speaker, over the steering column, under the carpet and out next to the gear lever to join the Z3 wiring.
Sunday morning managed to extend and get working:
For the window switches I used Durite 0-656-05 rotary switches, these are momentary on - off - momentary on. I wired them directly back to the existing electric window switch wiring (centre console). The other method is to wire it into the electric mirror wiring but I wanted to keep it on the correct circuit for fuses etc.
I discovered that if you undo the door electrical connector there is a 1.5x1cm opening at the bottom which the 3-wires passed through OK, pulling them through the rubber cable protector between the door and the body was a fiddle but OK. Routed them out above the footwell speaker, over the steering column, under the carpet and out next to the gear lever to join the Z3 wiring.
Sunday morning managed to extend and get working:
- Electric Roof Wiring - only 3-wires needed (there are 5 on the Z3 switch) - diagram below
- ASC - I wanted to keep the BMW switch but slightly out of sight (driver's knee panel to the left of the steering column). extended the wiring and spliced the original ASC connector back onto the loom. I could not find where I put the ASC switch so not fitted in yet. - diagram below
- Hazard Warning light switch cut into the driver's knee panel also and wired back to the original Z3 switch position - diagram below
jaguartvr
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Looking good.
I opted for using the old door mirror wiring for the window switches. In the course of a build, I seem to have the doors on and off quite a few times. I also remove the doors and the door skins for painting. Again I fit the door skins with rivnuts so they can be removed, bonding the skins on is not a good idea for future maintenance. I also removed the door to fit the new door liners, I used hidden Xmas tree plugs which are hidden as on modern cars rather than visible mounting screws. This is a lot trickier and no room for error, it is much easier doing it with the door on a bench. Of course, the original cars did have visible screws............so cheaply made!
With the rotary window switches, I pack the MGB window winder with GRP paste and push the rotary knob into the centre, make sure the screw hole in the window winder is kept free and watch out the GRP paste that is expelled around the edge, it gets everywhere.
The GRO paste is not to glue the knob on but it stops it from turning within the winder.
You then need to drill through the window winder hole, push the rotary knob and winder back onto the switch. The grip isn't enough to hold the winder in position except for straight down. A self-tapping screw through the winder and hole you have drilled will expand the fitting in the rotary switch a bit like a Rawl plug, this is enough to hold the winder in the desired position.
I opted for using the old door mirror wiring for the window switches. In the course of a build, I seem to have the doors on and off quite a few times. I also remove the doors and the door skins for painting. Again I fit the door skins with rivnuts so they can be removed, bonding the skins on is not a good idea for future maintenance. I also removed the door to fit the new door liners, I used hidden Xmas tree plugs which are hidden as on modern cars rather than visible mounting screws. This is a lot trickier and no room for error, it is much easier doing it with the door on a bench. Of course, the original cars did have visible screws............so cheaply made!
With the rotary window switches, I pack the MGB window winder with GRP paste and push the rotary knob into the centre, make sure the screw hole in the window winder is kept free and watch out the GRP paste that is expelled around the edge, it gets everywhere.
The GRO paste is not to glue the knob on but it stops it from turning within the winder.
You then need to drill through the window winder hole, push the rotary knob and winder back onto the switch. The grip isn't enough to hold the winder in position except for straight down. A self-tapping screw through the winder and hole you have drilled will expand the fitting in the rotary switch a bit like a Rawl plug, this is enough to hold the winder in the desired position.
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Cheers SteveLooking good.
I opted for using the old door mirror wiring for the window switches. In the course of a build, I seem to have the doors on and off quite a few times. I also remove the doors and the door skins for painting. Again I fit the door skins with rivnuts so they can be removed, bonding the skins on is not a good idea for future maintenance. I also removed the door to fit the new door liners, I used hidden Xmas tree plugs which are hidden as on modern cars rather than visible mounting screws. This is a lot trickier and no room for error, it is much easier doing it with the door on a bench. Of course, the original cars did have visible screws............so cheaply made!
With the rotary window switches, I pack the MGB window winder with GRP paste and push the rotary knob into the centre, make sure the screw hole in the window winder is kept free and watch out the GRP paste that is expelled around the edge, it gets everywhere.
The GRO paste is not to glue the knob on but it stops it from turning within the winder.
You then need to drill through the window winder hole, push the rotary knob and winder back onto the switch. The grip isn't enough to hold the winder in position except for straight down. A self-tapping screw through the winder and hole you have drilled will expand the fitting in the rotary switch a bit like a Rawl plug, this is enough to hold the winder in the desired position.
I was planning on rivnuts for the door skins with no bonding for exactly the same reason (a lot to go wrong inside a door). When the skins are next off, which will be soon as I need to rivnut them (currently held with two self tappers), i may even cut some extra access holes in the Z3 door skin for later maintenance.
I like the visible screws and cup washers for mounting the door cards (very period), being a bit OCD I have to have all the straight cuts in the screws lined up in the same plane!
GRP paste plus self tapper is a good idea for the window winder/switch join (i was thinking epoxy but GRP better). I am thinking of cutting some flats on the switch knob so it cannot rotate also.
Also very handy you posted the pic above as I was looking for the example of how the mini door opener fixes in place!
Not managed to get hold of Justin or Yvonne yet - PITA the pair of them.
jaguartvr
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I pop rivet the opener to a plate and screw the plate to the door, there is an indented area almost made for it. The opener needs to be at a slight angle so that it doesn't catch on itself when it is opened.
Fit the door opener first so you can see how much clearance you need for the window switch, otherwise, when you open the door the opener bar catches on the window switch. Guess how I know this.
For the door skins, you can get extra deep rivnuts for thicker materials, this means you can fit the rivnut and fit a washer to the back before setting the rivnut, this makes it a lot more secure. The California layup is much more even and smoother than the Tribute so it is much easier to fit the rivnuts.
Fit the door opener first so you can see how much clearance you need for the window switch, otherwise, when you open the door the opener bar catches on the window switch. Guess how I know this.
For the door skins, you can get extra deep rivnuts for thicker materials, this means you can fit the rivnut and fit a washer to the back before setting the rivnut, this makes it a lot more secure. The California layup is much more even and smoother than the Tribute so it is much easier to fit the rivnuts.
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Last night's efforts are not worthy of pictures!
A bit of Cardboard Aided Design (CAD) made to create the shape of the vertical section at the front end of the centre console. I am trying to get this as far forward as possible as the plan is to build a radio/speaker box in front of the gearlever.
Radio mounted as low down as possible witht the speaker grill at 45 degrees (ish) above the radio, The speaker grill will hinge up/down concealing the standard Z3 heater controls behind.
Getting the vertical section and the speaker box to marry up with the Z3 knee panels is "interesting", much head-scratching and swearing.
Pics to follow once something is actually made.
Something like this only smaller and with the radio at the bottom which will mean it can sit further forward.
Interior of this one is similar (2-tone) to where i am headed except mine is Red where the cream is in the pics.
A bit of Cardboard Aided Design (CAD) made to create the shape of the vertical section at the front end of the centre console. I am trying to get this as far forward as possible as the plan is to build a radio/speaker box in front of the gearlever.
Radio mounted as low down as possible witht the speaker grill at 45 degrees (ish) above the radio, The speaker grill will hinge up/down concealing the standard Z3 heater controls behind.
Getting the vertical section and the speaker box to marry up with the Z3 knee panels is "interesting", much head-scratching and swearing.
Pics to follow once something is actually made.
Something like this only smaller and with the radio at the bottom which will mean it can sit further forward.
Interior of this one is similar (2-tone) to where i am headed except mine is Red where the cream is in the pics.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
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This is what you want
eBay item 274925070617
or search
Bluetooth Retro Car Radio MP3 Player
It is only 7cm deep so you could push the front of your console forward or as I am intending to do, fit fauxrarri style vertically next to the gear lever, my centre console is deep enough to take it.
As the stereo does not have a cd player it is very shallow, get a universal BMW stereo loom from eBay, about a fiver and it is plug and play.
Has Bluetooth so connects to your phone for hands-free and streaming music. It also has a slot for an SD card, USB port and aux in. Also comes with a remote. The sound quality is great and is quite capable of drowning out a loud exhaust.
You had better sit down, the price may shock you
eBay item 274925070617
or search
Bluetooth Retro Car Radio MP3 Player
It is only 7cm deep so you could push the front of your console forward or as I am intending to do, fit fauxrarri style vertically next to the gear lever, my centre console is deep enough to take it.
As the stereo does not have a cd player it is very shallow, get a universal BMW stereo loom from eBay, about a fiver and it is plug and play.
Has Bluetooth so connects to your phone for hands-free and streaming music. It also has a slot for an SD card, USB port and aux in. Also comes with a remote. The sound quality is great and is quite capable of drowning out a loud exhaust.
You had better sit down, the price may shock you
I know these wee-beasties, they are OK for the price but I like my music so already got the same set-up as I have in the 250SWB:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193976280988 £119.99
Great piece of kit and sounds amazing with uprated footwell speakers, rear speakers, and a base unit under the seats.
I have 4" dual cones behind the headrests, 6.5" 2-ways in the footwell with the tweeters around the side of the dash (all bought 2nd hand on ebay £45 and a Pioneer sub-woofer under the driver seat, new £99
Amazing sound for £263.99. Used whilst I am waiting for SWMBO to come out of somewhere or when on a gentle cruise about. Totally pointless when getting a shift on as it is drowned out by the intake/engine/exhaust noise which is far better than any ICE!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193976280988 £119.99
Great piece of kit and sounds amazing with uprated footwell speakers, rear speakers, and a base unit under the seats.
I have 4" dual cones behind the headrests, 6.5" 2-ways in the footwell with the tweeters around the side of the dash (all bought 2nd hand on ebay £45 and a Pioneer sub-woofer under the driver seat, new £99
Amazing sound for £263.99. Used whilst I am waiting for SWMBO to come out of somewhere or when on a gentle cruise about. Totally pointless when getting a shift on as it is drowned out by the intake/engine/exhaust noise which is far better than any ICE!
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A couple of hours tonight.
Took out the Z3 knee panels to make access simple to start the centre console.
Stage one was to cut a ply top for the console with holes for gearlever and handbrake (the slot behind the gear-lever hole is to allow the top to slide into place). This will be bent slightly to fit better.
Stage two was to measure up and rough cut the ply for the radio box mentioned previously. This will sit as far forwards as possible, radio at the bottom, vintage speaker grill hiding heater controls above.
Tomorrow should have all this in place hopefully.
Took out the Z3 knee panels to make access simple to start the centre console.
Stage one was to cut a ply top for the console with holes for gearlever and handbrake (the slot behind the gear-lever hole is to allow the top to slide into place). This will be bent slightly to fit better.
Stage two was to measure up and rough cut the ply for the radio box mentioned previously. This will sit as far forwards as possible, radio at the bottom, vintage speaker grill hiding heater controls above.
Tomorrow should have all this in place hopefully.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
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- Jan 9, 2017
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The red and black interior does look stunning when finished, I will probably do one of mine in red the other in black. Black is boring but the car is to be sold, an easy job to change the interior from black to something more exciting, just need to retrim the door cards, centre console and rear bulkhead which is quite simple. If you are intending to sell the car you need to keep the colour simple. There is a Tribute 250 doing the rounds for sale at the moment, a very nice build but it's yellow, limits the number of buyers, I couldn't live with a bright yellow car.
I have the previous Caliber 110 retro stereo in my old Jag, It's a bit better looking as it has the CD and SD card hidden behind a folding display. It doesn't have bluetooth but I did buy it over 10 years ago. The sound quality is about the same as the cheap new one but the caliber was almost 10x the price!
I have the previous Caliber 110 retro stereo in my old Jag, It's a bit better looking as it has the CD and SD card hidden behind a folding display. It doesn't have bluetooth but I did buy it over 10 years ago. The sound quality is about the same as the cheap new one but the caliber was almost 10x the price!
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The red and black interior does look stunning when finished, I will probably do one of mine in red the other in black. Black is boring but the car is to be sold, an easy job to change the interior from black to something more exciting, just need to retrim the door cards, centre console and rear bulkhead which is quite simple. If you are intending to sell the car you need to keep the colour simple. There is a Tribute 250 doing the rounds for sale at the moment, a very nice build but it's yellow, limits the number of buyers, I couldn't live with a bright yellow car.
I have the previous Caliber 110 retro stereo in my old Jag, It's a bit better looking as it has the CD and SD card hidden behind a folding display. It doesn't have bluetooth but I did buy it over 10 years ago. The sound quality is about the same as the cheap new one but the caliber was almost 10x the price!
Does look nice matey, very sumptuous!
The interior continues, the top section of the centre console is now trial fitted with all of the switches, etc. in and tested. I think I am going to alter the way the flat section runs.
All I need is to find a speaker grill to cover the Z3 controls!
Also managed to get the illumination on the gauges working again (connector on the oil pressure gauge had come off (kills the whole illumination circuit which is not great).
For the observant amongst you 110mph inside my workshop is pretty impressive!
All I need is to find a speaker grill to cover the Z3 controls!
Also managed to get the illumination on the gauges working again (connector on the oil pressure gauge had come off (kills the whole illumination circuit which is not great).
For the observant amongst you 110mph inside my workshop is pretty impressive!
jaguartvr
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Jaguar MK2 speaker grill would have been ideal, last one I bought was a tenner, was a few years back, now over £200, I did find this but check the size first
Illumination, so was I right, was it the old Xmas tree light problem? The one where every Xmas when you have to check every bulb/connection to find the faulty one to get them to work. If so it's not good, getting the instruments out to sort a loose connection will be a pain, hopefully, the new and improved longer loom will help.
What's up with the speedo?
Classic Mini Cooper Speaker Grille NOS AUSTIN BMC MINI MK1 MK2 COOPER S MORRIS | eBay
These were factory fitted to MK1 & MK2 Mini Coopers (Austin & Morris badged) & De Luxe Minis. This is an original BMC item and has never been fitted. A genuine NOS item, made to last.
www.ebay.co.uk
Illumination, so was I right, was it the old Xmas tree light problem? The one where every Xmas when you have to check every bulb/connection to find the faulty one to get them to work. If so it's not good, getting the instruments out to sort a loose connection will be a pain, hopefully, the new and improved longer loom will help.
What's up with the speedo?
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I've seen the mini one and various for Astons, Jags etc. (Missed a perfect one for £7 on ebay now they are £70 new - eek!). I will keep my eye out for a 2nd hand one in the correct size (9"x6" outside dimensions). If not I will have to make one up as I have some ally angle and metal speaker grill lying about (old nightclub speakers I have in my workshop - I should hook them up to something really as i have plenty of old Amps and CD players lying around also, music while you work).
As you correctly worked out, the illumination was indeed the Xmas tree scenario, a riot at Xmas seeing SWMBO twist the bulb and leap back like she had an electric shock when the lights come on, but not so great on car gauges!
No idea what is going on with the speedo, maybe because it is a Fauxrarri it must be doing a ton all the time!
As you correctly worked out, the illumination was indeed the Xmas tree scenario, a riot at Xmas seeing SWMBO twist the bulb and leap back like she had an electric shock when the lights come on, but not so great on car gauges!
No idea what is going on with the speedo, maybe because it is a Fauxrarri it must be doing a ton all the time!
This evening’s efforts.
Cut the centre console differently. I am planning on introducing a curve downward from the gear-lever to the level part at the handbrake.
Next phase, sort the sides.
Cut the centre console differently. I am planning on introducing a curve downward from the gear-lever to the level part at the handbrake.
Next phase, sort the sides.
Very true @Pingu nice to build stuff. I was a carpenter in a previous life (barn conversions mostly) and it is very satisfying.I don't know how you feel about it, but this was the fun bit for me
A chance to do something that I can say "I made that" - instead of "I just bolted that bit on".
jaguartvr
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In your book of wiring, do you have any details of the wiring to the spot/fog light switches?
I don't have any spot or fog lights fitted and the interior switches seem to have vanished so I'm not even sure what colours the wires should be.
One of the problems with having a break from a build.
I don't have any spot or fog lights fitted and the interior switches seem to have vanished so I'm not even sure what colours the wires should be.
One of the problems with having a break from a build.