Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build

[MisterP007]

Equity Release exam passed with Distinction this morning, now I can advise oldies (like me) about releasing money from their homes. Big business these days and on the increase. Much better and safer plans available now, not like the old 1980's stuff that everyone remembers.

Trouble is that now means I have to add even more bloody letters after my name which nobody cares about except the Financial Conduct Authority. It now reads:

Sandy Paterson DipFA, CeMAP, CeRER, MLIBF
Independent Financial Adviser

Bloody ridiculous and if I added in my degree I would have to add, BA (Hons) to that as well. EEEKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[MisterP007]

Be positive, it's a case of "Top Bodgering", which I just happen to have an O level in.


Just remember to take a photo of the new and old odometer together so you can show the mileages at change over. The MOT history will show it but you may have a problem explaining it to a buyer who would expect the new speedo to be set at zero or the original mileage. Not many buyers woud believe that you had randomly set it at 73k, you would have to ask yourself "Do I trust this financial advisor?"

"Top Bodgering" sounds like a great name for a TV Series, Clarkson, who has a Masters in Top Bodgering, could present it.

 

[Pingu]

You're just trying to depress me, I will wire it up as non illuminated (except when flashing), I will put a torch in the glove box in case he wants it illuminated.

It's easy to sort. Anything electrical is easy - electronics is more tricky.

Do you have a part number for the switch, so I can see the circuit?

edit found it - #HAZSW4



You need two diodes (you may get away with not using these, but safety first) and a resistor...

http://www.porterbility.co.uk/Files/JPG/ZroadsterOrg/IMG_20211029_152446_HAZSW4.jpg

 

[jaguartvr]

It is simply 3 connections that all connect when the switch is pulled on, plus an earth. I don't want the switch to illuminate with the lights, a car of this era didn't have hazards so don't want to draw attention to it but at the same time, if fitted has to be visible.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

I know it's yet more money, but if you want a real odometer reading stashed somewhere accessible would one of these things fit hidden away out of sight but with enough wire to let you pull it out? Doesn't have to be in the dash, in the boot would do so long as the GPS signal can get to it.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33405180...VjxRJZzTPg%3D%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBM9rqVy5lf

 

[MisterP007]

I know it's yet more money, but if you want a real odometer reading stashed somewhere accessible would one of these things fit hidden away out of sight but with enough wire to let you pull it out? Doesn't have to be in the dash, in the boot would do so long as the GPS signal can get to it.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334051803700?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item4dc70a0234:g:jX8AAOSwUAFg1C7e&amdata=enc:AQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSprd4IgPv6LBzlteBBg9Pe8rDm4p3evM5IkKBNyIFwGrVhFLJg2QbMrBI0%2BxHk5rDI%2Fy2icIepqlJbMLuGRJ4YkbcEXiwpBmqOoCCiq%2BePgckb%2BrHqEiaMSxLtqyY2SUkMT1YDozIVgIIwPSB0VuoJM8PKToGbn5VDnfTzpXWh%2BQYuqOoXzQ%2BbaeCLctfImrJToiXDbQaPUDqXBMydYGMCZzDYS1FoccB5Vnpx0T8xKVfllv7JAIXnd9gcajlMW1b4bmiP1wE6ijq1EQ6Hc0SpqurJXk7hvb5hXCohgFGWuNB12W0siTiOZkWvo1K3T9oT1c7mZaEDpZyfK0iyc%2BfwVhS4OaBSjqBurrLC45%2BKXW7BtvtOrQK6B%2Bka7pK%2BvTekXHf6FmX3Ygb8iByvEGeT%2FeTxdZQLfcliiZVKg2bJAEKol3lXRl%2BF%2F3pT8DworScSoO5177A4ujXh5hhQ6rA4qsbfbAHWzjACF7djGyP0%2F5lyc0h9LIO%2B64dGIIm0OEScDyGRJY%2FYbmybupmUpFkikVVs35rxAESzI9qMHjHIcEXFuWOBkI7QptiHv9cQ9At36TRuhRphzNtvNb63N0J%2F4W0w13MyEk5ATFE6bNDDmnEIxfLR9o3kgOufX3C2BD51P%2FHdRKxz8zkOc1xJyZ68t74vdDHbpruYPujEnUwQoPjmFf9vob25dt3UNDYyfCoveB6UfNGje92fPHTbzEZZLXgODOQcjMKpX1AWNWuZ8DCAJO%2BhEq6c2xc8UbzkilcOqFf4ooRVuohjuoVqMoiI5Ul3Nr2Xkes3NvQbfaB4w1%2FQxk9KK06i%2FmrP1jNgL2nq%2FV1qKTQ%2FVbDVjxRJZzTPg%3D%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBM9rqVy5lf

May be worth a look. Thanks

 

[Duncodin]

Equity Release exam passed with Distinction this morning, now I can advise oldies (like me) about releasing money from their homes. Big business these days and on the increase. Much better and safer plans available now, not like the old 1980's stuff that everyone remembers.

Trouble is that now means I have to add even more bloody letters after my name which nobody cares about except the Financial Conduct Authority. It now reads:

Sandy Paterson DipFA, CeMAP, CeRER, MLIBF
Independent Financial Adviser

Bloody ridiculous and if I added in my degree I would have to add, BA (Hons) to that as well. EEEKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Congrats on passing your exam.

 

[MisterP007]

Been busy on the car at the weekend but nothing that shows in a photo.

Wired the fog light switches (Stainless Steel Toggles) and tell-tale lights (Old Lucas style) into the dash.

Tried to wire the hazard switch and gave up (cheap Chinese version with about 7 wires , so onto ebay and bought the Car Builder Solutions one which I know how to wire (cannot actually remember but it is the same as on the 250SWB so just have to look at that one again (hopefully have a photo somewhere of the wiring)).

Fed up with being bent over double in the footwell of the car, I diverted onto re-fitting the front clam to get the panel gaps correct and adjusted the front mounts for this (these have now been Loctited in position). Sanded off all the moulding lines in the GRP panels and roughed up areas that need a little filler with 80 grit sandpaper (gives a decent key to the filler).

Both doors were "bouncing" off the locks which turned out to be the rear edge of the inner part of the doors catching on the GRP rear wing inner part. Laid a bit of masking tape on the offending GRP part, banged the door shut which marked/indented the tape where the door was sticking. 10 minutes with a grinder and sander and hey presto! doors shut perfectly.

Hoovered up the pink dust, wiped everything down with a wet cloth and headed for Vino and dinner!

Heading down at 5pm today to continue.

 

[t-tony]

As long as the hazard lights have a “Tell tale” warning light that is all you need. The switch itself does not have to be illuminated when lights are on.

Tony.

 

[MisterP007]

As long as the hazard lights have a “Tell tale” warning light that is all you need. The switch itself does not have to be illuminated when lights are on.

Tony.

I meant to ask you about that before.

The 250SWB has a CBS hazard switch which is bright red but not illuminated. The lamp in the switch flashes on and off when activated. This went through the MOT no problem. Should the tester have pulled me on this?

Sorry Tony the answer was in your post already (note to self - read things twice before commenting).

 

[MisterP007]

A couple of hours slaving over a hot air gun last night.

"What is he talking about?" I hear you say.

Passing the heat gun over the GRP bodywork on low setting induces any (or should it be many?) air bubbles in the Gel Coat/GRP to expand and pop creating pinholes and quite a few larger than pinholes in the surface. This is in lieu of baking the whole body in an oven to achieve the same.

If this is not done, a half decent hot day (in Sussex?) and they will pop out themselves through the nice shiny new paint job EEK!!!!

Managed to get the whole front-end and a bit of the rear-end done, I need another 2-3 hours to sort out the bonnet, doors, and boot lid. Then a bit of filler for the larger holes and some Dolphin Glaze for the pin holes.

Imagine the damage this lot would do to a fresh paint job!

 

[jaguartvr]

I would fill those with gel coat first and then a final thin skim of dolphin glaze.

 

[MisterP007]

Not a bad shout Steve, I will buy a bit of gel coat.

Having trouble with my instruments (ooh-er misses!) at the moment. No illumination now, checked all fuses and OK, still no illumination.

 

[MisterP007]

Loads to choose from on ebay, which variety do you use Steve?

 

[Duncodin]

On that long top edge I think I'd use a glass reinforced body filler such as isopon p40. It's basically glass impregnated gel. Pack it in squeezing it in with a lolly stick. That's a big hole on an edge needs a bit more support.

P40 wouldn'r work on the smaller holes though.

 

[jaguartvr]

Body filler and GRP expand differently which is why it is best to use gel coat with as little filler on top as possible.

I buy my gel coat in big tubs, if you are passing I can put some in a small container for you, otherwise, I would suggest "gel coat filler" on eBay as used for filling scratches in boat hulls.

 

[MisterP007]

On that long top edge I think I'd use a glass reinforced body filler such as isopon p40. It's basically glass impregnated gel. Pack it in squeezing it in with a lolly stick. That's a big hole on an edge needs a bit more support.

P40 wouldn't work on the smaller holes though.

Hi duncodin

I have some GRP filler which I use for large areas. This one:

U-Pol B Glass Fibre Bridging Compound No.4 1.85L Body Filler Upol | eBay

UPOL 'B' No 4 1.85 Litre Tub. A polyester glass fibre filler is a two component chemical paste used for the bridging of holes and rust insurfaces suchas steel andGRP. Ideal for bridging holes and is water resistant when cured.

www.ebay.co.uk

£25 for 1.85 litres and really strong stuff. I used about 1/2 tin on the 250SWB where the panel fit is not great on the Tribute Kit. The 250 Cal's panels are a far better fit and I will only need about 0.5 litre, if that. Overbuild it, sand it back and apply upol Dolphin Glaze very thinly over this.

Smaller areas, gel coat filler with dolphin glaze over. Pinholes, Dolphin Glaze only.

Pics below is the GRP paste on the 250SWB bonnet closing the poor panel fit.

 

[Duncodin]

As Jaguartvr said, gelcote is best for fixing gelcote. But it can be quite runny. There's a powder you can get to mix into the gel to thicken it to a paste. That's best for fixing missing gelcote. But that long hole along the edge I mentioned needs reinforcing. The bloke laying that panel didn't push the mat into the corners properly.
I don't know that glass filler you've got but they're much of a muchness. Basically a snot colored gel mixed with chopped glass.

 

[jaguartvr]

No Illumination

You could try putting a +ve and -ve power supply directly to the accessory plug on the Grassbank loom.

P700's
What is the illumination like on your SWB? I don/t normally use mine at night but have had to use it recently and the headlights are crap.
I set them up at the MOT this year and fitted nightbreaker bulbs. They are so dim that I have been driving on main beam and so far haven't been flashed by anyone.

 

[MisterP007]

No Illumination

You could try putting a +ve and -ve power supply directly to the accessory plug on the Grassbank loom.

P700's
What is the illumination like on your SWB? I don/t normally use mine at night but have had to use it recently and the headlights are crap.
I set them up at the MOT this year and fitted nightbreaker bulbs. They are so dim that I have been driving on main beam and so far haven't been flashed by anyone.

Hi Steve

I will give the +12v and earth on the accessory socket when I get a chance (been decorating my office all weekend so no car work).

My P700's work pretty well, not a massive amount of lateral spread on the beam to illuminate the pavement/hedge etc. but straight ahead are fine on low beam. Main beam is good penetration down the road also. They still have the supposed high-power bulbs they came with from the supplier (Vintage 65 on ebay) and will get changed to 200% Nightbreakers when one of these pops.

You seem to have problems with brightness (or lack of it), did you take your Ray-Bans off????