Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build

[Pingu]

@MisterP007 - It sounds like you did what I did and CUT the wires to the three dash console plugs (X16, X17 & X271). I left all the uncut wires connected to the plugs - this allows me to plug in the original console if I need to. There are enough wires uncut and still connected to allow mileage reading as well as SI reading and reset.

If I had planned it properly, I would have used parallel lines (soldered, not ScotchLok ) - then ALL the wires would still go to the dash console plugs. I may do this modification when I get the car back from Classic Coachworks.


Re the ETB fuel tank ballast resistor. I used a 47 Ohm resistor, not the 300 Ohm one that was supplied.

I was also able to fit a low fuel warning light, but I'm not 100% happy with it as the backing of the dial lifted and it shows a shadow. The light works, though .


A top tip from me would be to use the BMW wiring diagram rather than a multimeter to trace the correct wires. The wiring diagrams are very good and even show what is going on inside most of the switches. (http://www.porterbility.co.uk/Z3_Wiring_Diagrams.htm)

 

[Pingu]

I was more concerned about me/prospective buyer being able to see the true mileage if i ever wanted to sell. Anybody know if the ECU can be interrogated by a code reader to pick up the mileage?

The mileage is held in a module on the car as you can plug in the dash console to get the mileage. The dash console is just a display unit as far as I know.

I don't think INPA can read mileage on an E36.

 

[MisterP007]

@MisterP007 - It sounds like you did what I did and CUT the wires to the three dash console plugs (X16, X17 & X271). I left all the uncut wires connected to the plugs - this allows me to plug in the original console if I need to. There are enough wires uncut and still connected to allow mileage reading as well as SI reading and reset.

If I had planned it properly, I would have used parallel lines (soldered, not ScotchLok ) - then ALL the wires would still go to the dash console plugs. I may do this modification when I get the car back from Classic Coachworks.


Re the ETB fuel tank ballast resistor. I used a 47 Ohm resistor, not the 300 Ohm one that was supplied.

I was also able to fit a low fuel warning light, but I'm not 100% happy with it as the backing of the dial lifted and it shows a shadow. The light works, though .


A top tip from me would be to use the BMW wiring diagram rather than a multimeter to trace the correct wires. The wiring diagrams are very good and even show what is going on inside most of the switches. (http://www.porterbility.co.uk/Z3_Wiring_Diagrams.htm)

Hey Pingu

Nope, did not cut the 3-dash connector wires as I knew I would be getting the Grasbank Plug & Play which needs the circuit board.

No soldering involved (well 2 wires for the power connector), and definitely keep away from Scotch-Loks.

Useful to know on the 47 Ohm Resistor I will order one and change this on the SWB (i left access).

Good work on fitting the tell tale on the fuel.

I have a list of all the wires from the instruments to the bmw wiring written up in my book. I did use the wiring diagrams from my Haynes Manual with extra checking with a multi-meter. Took a while but is simple to do if you are organised.

 

[MisterP007]

The mileage is held in a module on the car as you can plug in the dash console to get the mileage. The dash console is just a display unit as far as I know.

I don't think INPA can read mileage on an E36.

It is just a display but now stuffed up behind the dash and nearly impossible to see without smoke and mirrors.

 

[Pingu]

Useful to know on the 47 Ohm Resistor I will order one and change this on the SWB (i left access).

47 was found through trial and error using a variable resistor - yours may be different. Mine was actually 48.4, but I had loads of 470s in my box of bits, so there is a bunch of 10 parallel soldered and bridging the two wires from the fuel tank .

Get yourself a few variable resistors (they only cost a quid each). Trial and error. Measure the winning resistance, and use the closest available resistor(s).

 

[MisterP007]

No more work on the car until Saturday afternoon.

I need to read the textbook for an exam in the morning for Equity Release (I have been writing Equity Release business regularly since 1997 and now the regulators decide they need everyone to pass a new exam to keep advising - easy way to rake in £220 each person for the exam and gives them something else to poke their noses into (Any Financial Conduct Authority people on here just forget this!).

Saturday morning I have a CT Scan which is fun! It is like being inside a huge, revolving washing machine drum whilst being bombarded with electromagnetic pulses whilst the machine makes deep whoo whoo noises (I quite like it!)

 

[t-tony]

First time I had an MRI scan at Grantham I fell asleep.

Tony.

 

[MisterP007]

First time I had an MRI scan at Grantham I fell asleep.

Tony.

They are quite relaxing, no idea why people are scared of them!

 

[jaguartvr]

Brilliant pieces of kit, totally drowns out the wife. Not many things can do that.

 

[t-tony]

They are quite relaxing, no idea why people are scared of them!

I imagine if you suffered from claustrophobia it could be pretty scary, thankfully I don’t.

Tony.

 

[gookah]

Hi Gookah, glad you replied to Sandy's thread, that way I don't feel so bad about asking you about another electrickery question.
View attachment 203483
I am hoping to replace the existing BMW hazard switch with the one pictured above. When this one is turned on all 3 terminals are connected, there is also an earth terminal connected to the shaft which can just be seen in the 11 o'clock position. The switch is illuminated.
Any ideas on what to connect to this switch coming from the original hazard switch?

Many thanks

Steve

Fairly straight forward with the following caveat:
It depends on what you want regarding the illumination of your new switch.
You can have the switch light up when you put the sidelights/headlights on, (and dim with the rheostat control)
or flash in time with the indicators when you use the switch,
but you can't have both.
The existing switch has a changeover inside, meaning if it is lit because you have the sidelights on, pressing it disconnects that circuit and changes it to a 'flash-in-unison-with-the-indicators' circuit.
You don't have that with your new switch.


The old switch has the following wires to it:
Grey/Red is +12v from the 'lights on' circuit
Blue/Green is from the flasher relay and is a pulsed +12v in unison with the indicators.
Brown/Blue is the circuit to the flasher relay via the crash module, This needs to connect to earth to make the flashers flash.
You will have one remaining wire on your old switch which is an earth, (probably a plain brown wire but not sure of the colour)


It looks like you have identified the earth terminal on your new switch, which will be there for the illumination purpose.
Next you need to identify the terminal that will light your switch when you apply 12v to it.

Once you have done that you need to decide which method of illumination you want.
If you want it to light up when you switch 'lights on' , connect that newly identified terminal to the Grey/Red wire,
If you want it to flash with the indicators wire it to the Blue/Green wire instead.

To then get the flashers to flash, identify two other terminals on your new switch that will make a separate circuit when the switch is operated.
Connect the Brown/Blue wire to one of them
and then run an earth to the switch light's earth terminal (as previously discovered) and an earth to the other terminal of the new switch circuit.

that should be it

 

[jaguartvr]

Thanks very much for taking the time and trouble on this.
I intend the switch to illuminate when the hazard switch is on. I will have a go over the weekend if the rain stops for 5 minutes.
Don't worry if any of you notice a burning smell, it will probably be me.

My instruments have been returned from Grassbanks so I will be having a trial fit, I'm hoping that I can get them in without having to extend the loom. The loom for the instruments was made to fit the Grassbank dash which has a lift off top and so has better access and only needs a short loom. If you are using another dash, Tribute or DNA then he will be able to supply a loom of the correct length. Just needs me and Sandy to work what the lengths need to be.

 

[jaguartvr]

I'm getting the hang of this elecktrickery stuff

 

[Pingu]

Hi Gookah, glad you replied to Sandy's thread, that way I don't feel so bad about asking you about another electrickery question.
View attachment 203483
I am hoping to replace the existing BMW hazard switch with the one pictured above. When this one is turned on all 3 terminals are connected, there is also an earth terminal connected to the shaft which can just be seen in the 11 o'clock position. The switch is illuminated.
Any ideas on what to connect to this switch coming from the original hazard switch?

Many thanks

Steve

I think that it's a legal requirement for the hazard light to be illuminated when the sidelights are on. @t-tony may know the answer.

I used a resistor in series with the sidelight circuit to reduce the brilliance of the bulb when the sidelights are on. The hazard switch feed (which actually comes from the crash alarm, not the hazard flasher relay) illuminates the bulb at full brilliance when it flashes.

Use the hazard switch on p.232 to see how it works

see p.231 of the wiring diagram...

http://www.porterbility.co.uk/Files/PDF/e36z3_98_AG.pdf

 

[jaguartvr]

You're just trying to depress me, I will wire it up as non illuminated (except when flashing), I will put a torch in the glove box in case he wants it illuminated.

 

[MisterP007]

You're just trying to depress me, I will wire it up as non illuminated (except when flashing), I will put a torch in the glove box in case he wants it illuminated.

Mine flew through the MOT with the Car Builder Solutions switch wired as, no illumination on sidelights, flashes when pulled.

 

[jaguartvr]

After Sandy's problems with fitting the dash with the BMW circuit board in place I thought I better have a go so I could show him where he went wrong, after all a tiny circuit board is hardly going to make any difference.

BUGGER BUGGER BUGGER

Same problem, dash sits 2" too high on the drivers side. Like sandy I have had to trim the demister tube under the dash, this will have to be made up with GRP mat to allow airflow to demist the screen, hope there is room. Even with the tube ut out the BMW circuit board only will fit one way, with the odometer facing up so it cannot be seen. Even in this position, there is only about 5mm wiggle room. I think I will be able to give it one wrap of bubble wrap to stop it from vibrating. As Sandy said, the ideal place to mount the circuit board would be in the passenger side just above your shins
but then you would have to lengthen all the wires going to the circuit board (about 50ish?), simply not worth the effort. it won't fit in the small space over the driver's shins.

 

[MisterP007]

I'm getting the hang of this elecktrickery stuff
View attachment 203831

Reminds me of a joke:

"What do you call three Z3's on fire?" - Answer "A good start"

Sorry, I meant "what do you call three financial advisers at the bottom of the Thames?"............

No, wait, that cannot be it, I am a Financial Adviser.........

Whatever, introduce your own hated people in the joke - Estate Agents, Lawyers, Stealerships etc.

 

[MisterP007]

After Sandy's problems with fitting the dash with the BMW circuit board in place I thought I better have a go so I could show him where he went wrong, after all a tiny circuit board is hardly going to make any difference.

BUGGER BUGGER BUGGER

Same problem, dash sits 2" too high on the drivers side. Like sandy I have had to trim the demister tube under the dash, this will have to be made up with GRP mat to allow airflow to demist the screen, hope there is room. Even with the tube ut out the BMW circuit board only will fit one way, with the odometer facing up so it cannot be seen. Even in this position, there is only about 5mm wiggle room. I think I will be able to give it one wrap of bubble wrap to stop it from vibrating. As Sandy said, the ideal place to mount the circuit board would be in the passenger side just above your shins
but then you would have to lengthen all the wires going to the circuit board (about 50ish?), simply not worth the effort. it won't fit in the small space over the driver's shins.

That is the same result as I had Steve, i cut it back harder though (i forgot to take a picture of this stage). At the point you have reached in the pic I re-used the top part of the piece cut out, machined it down to very low profile and Tiger-Sealed/Taped it in. I just hope enough breeze passes through to demist the screen!

Not ideal me-thinks.

 

[jaguartvr]

Be positive, it's a case of "Top Bodgering", which I just happen to have an O level in.


Just remember to take a photo of the new and old odometer together so you can show the mileages at change over. The MOT history will show it but you may have a problem explaining it to a buyer who would expect the new speedo to be set at zero or the original mileage. Not many buyers woud believe that you had randomly set it at 73k, you would have to ask yourself "Do I trust this financial advisor?"