Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build

[MisterP007]

Love this thread

Glad you like it

 

[jaguartvr]

But I've seen the photos!
When fitting the seat covers, cover the seat back with a poly bag, this makes it far easier to slide the seat cover on and move it around to get it just right. If you don't it catches on the seat foam and everything starts moving around, you can just reach in and rip ot off afterwards. Don't forget to specify "no headrest holes" as all the MGB's fitted with humped seat foams had headrests.
How are the wire wheels coming along?

Watford-classics on ebay sell a pair of vinyl seat covers for £80, no idea on the quality but they don't come with headrest holes, ideal.
I have a late Z3 with sports seats that were factory trimmed in vinyl, had an argument with the guy who sold the car as he insisted they were leather, they are not they are vinyl. 20 years old with 100k on the clock and the seats still look brand spanking new, there is not a single wear mark on them. Being vinyl the heated seats warm up far quicker than the leather version, I reckon 90% of people would think they are leather. Don't confuse good quality vinyl for cheap vinyl of faux leather.
So you could get a set of 2nd hand seats for £60, covers for £80 and a bit of work. Would make a good budget option for the Kobra Z3 replicas.

 

[MisterP007]

But I've seen the photos!
When fitting the seat covers, cover the seat back with a poly bag, this makes it far easier to slide the seat cover on and move it around to get it just right. If you don't it catches on the seat foam and everything starts moving around, you can just reach in and rip ot off afterwards. Don't forget to specify "no headrest holes" as all the MGB's fitted with humped seat foams had headrests.
How are the wire wheels coming along?

Watford-classics on ebay sell a pair of vinyl seat covers for £80, no idea on the quality but they don't come with headrest holes, ideal.
I have a late Z3 with sports seats that were factory trimmed in vinyl, had an argument with the guy who sold the car as he insisted they were leather, they are not they are vinyl. 20 years old with 100k on the clock and the seats still look brand spanking new, there is not a single wear mark on them. Being vinyl the heated seats warm up far quicker than the leather version, I reckon 90% of people would think they are leather. Don't confuse good quality vinyl for cheap vinyl of faux leather.
So you could get a set of 2nd hand seats for £60, covers for £80 and a bit of work. Would make a good budget option for the Kobra Z3 replicas.

Hi Steve

Shhh!!! Do not give the game away about my quality build on the 250SWB!

I was aware of the polybag method, I am trying to avoid it if I can which is why I covered the foam in glued on, calico type material (also helps hold the old foam together better) which should allow the covers to slip over, if not then polythene it is. Good point on specifying no headrest holes although the trimmers have several options.

Wire wheels are sitting in a stack in the workshop untouched for now.

True what you say about good vinyl, my VW Camper, MGB and all my fast Fords had quality Vinyl covers and as you say, unmarked at 20-years old or more.

I will check out Watford Classics leather versions as well. I am intending to buy mine from www.classiccarseats.co.uk they are going to trim in Martrim Red Leather for £360, I can then order some more leather from the same batch direct from Martrim for the door cards.

 

[Pingu]

There's nothing stopping you ripping the plastic bag out after the cover is on - that's what I do.

 

[MisterP007]

There's nothing stopping you ripping the plastic bag out after the cover is on - that's what I do.

It’s true and no doubt I will end up doing just that. I have not ordered the covers yet though.

 

[jaguartvr]

ClassicCarSeats, that is Yvonne who supplied my black leather covers for my MGB seats. She does a very good job and is reasonably priced, only problem is she has a long lead time. Do ask her to "tuck and roll" the pleats otherwise, they are just sewn which doesn't look anywhere near as nice, it will of course cost a bit more.

(forgot to say that you rip the poly bags out after fitting covers)

 

[MisterP007]

ClassicCarSeats, that is Yvonne who supplied my black leather covers for my MGB seats. She does a very good job and is reasonably priced, only problem is she has a long lead time. Do ask her to "tuck and roll" the pleats otherwise, they are just sewn which doesn't look anywhere near as nice, it will of course cost a bit more.

(forgot to say that you rip the poly bags out after fitting covers)

Thanks for the heads up on the “tuck and roll” and good to know they do a good job.

On another subject, did you try fitting the Grassbank modified Z3 circuit board under the Tribute dash yet? Bloody Hell it is hard to get it in there, I am going to try and get the dash fitted today but at the moment it is 2” high on Driver’s side!

I am going to suggest that Justin fits a much longer wiring loom so the circuit board can fit where the passenger airbag was or above the knee panel Driver’s side. It is way too tight and easy to damage behind the Speedo/tacho or above/behind the tubular Steel bracing bar.

Also what did you connect the grey and red power wires to?

 

[jaguartvr]

2 wires to solder
On the white dash plug ( plugs that plug into the back of the original cluster)
red/yellow solder to new plug red/yellow
From blue dash plug
violet/yellow to grey new plug

I hate soldering but both plugs (with the dash out) will reach to the bonnet which makes soldering much easier. Sounds as if you have a red wire not red & yellow.

My dash is a modified DNA version, I had to chop quite a few of the metal brackets off to get it to fit. My instruments are back at Grassbanks having the illumination tweaked. I haven't fitted the dash, instruments and old instrument cluster properly yet as I am intending to get the dash trimmed first. I did think the fit might be tight and would have prefered a slightly longer loom but Grassbank assures me that there is plenty of length there.

 

[jaguartvr]

Red seat tuck & roll, black seat sewn pleat

 

[Althulas]

Tuck and pleat looks more up market.

 

[MisterP007]

2 wires to solder
On the white dash plug ( plugs that plug into the back of the original cluster)
red/yellow solder to new plug red/yellow
From blue dash plug
violet/yellow to grey new plug

I hate soldering but both plugs (with the dash out) will reach to the bonnet which makes soldering much easier. Sounds as if you have a red wire not red & yellow.

My dash is a modified DNA version, I had to chop quite a few of the metal brackets off to get it to fit. My instruments are back at Grassbanks having the illumination tweaked. I haven't fitted the dash, instruments and old instrument cluster properly yet as I am intending to get the dash trimmed first. I did think the fit might be tight and would have prefered a slightly longer loom but Grassbank assures me that there is plenty of length there.

Cheers Steve

I do have red/yellow wire and grey, thanks for the wiring connections. Why did Justin not pick up the power inside the cluster if it already exists on the plugs?

The loom needs to be at least 12-15” longer in my view as everything is tight. It would make things easier. Justin’s car has the Lusso dash with a removable top which makes things more accessible.

I have to cut more of the side vent tube and the residual Z3 dash in order to fit the cluster in.

 

[MisterP007]

Red seat tuck & roll, black seat sewn pleat

Tuck and roll it is then

 

[jaguartvr]

I had quite a job getting my dash in (without the instruments fitted), I ended up cutting lots of brackets and bits that looked to be in the way. It is very hard to see what is catching, a case of chop it off and see.

If anyone else following this thread fancy's building one just drop me a PM

 

[MisterP007]

I had quite a job getting my dash (without the instruments fitted), I ended up cutting lots of brackets and bits that looked to be in the way. It is very hard to see what is catching, a case of chop it off and see.

If anyone else following this thread fancy's building one just drop me a PM

I have the exact cut-off positions for the Z3 dash sussed out for adding the Tribute dash with ETB instruments. One set of cuts, drop the instruments in, slide the dash into place, job done.

The trouble I have had is getting the Z3 circuit board/back of instrument cluster needed for the Grassbank instruments to fit.

CHOICES

Directly behind the speedo/tacho vertically - way too tight and likely to damage the delicate connections.

Horizontally in the same place - fouls the instruments.

Horizontally above/behind the tubular scuttle brace - currently at least 1 1/2” too high, may fit if I cut some more of the plastic side vent tube out and cut back a slightly high spot in the old Z3 dash. I will try this tomorrow.

Horizontally below the steering column - too tight.

45 degree angle lengthways to the right of the steering column - would fit if the loom was long enough grrrrr......

The stupid thing is, if the wiring loom was 2 feet longer it would all drop in in 10 seconds and fit perfectly where the passenger airbag was. Grrrr.....

So much for “Plug and Play”!

 

[Paul H]

Could you extend the loom? Good connectors and add in the length of wire you need.

You seem very capable to me

 

[jaguartvr]

We are both using different dashboards than the dashboard they have been designed for so it can't really be blamed on Grassbank. I was hoping to fit the old dash just above the foot pedals, the idea being I could remove the lower panel to check on the proper mileage as I run mine on a limited mileage policy. I'm sure with our feedback the looms will be supplied a bit longer in future, that way we can complain that there is too much wiring to tuck away!
One thing to bear in mind is that all the warning lights are traditional bulbs so you will need access in the future to replace them.

 

[MisterP007]

I did manage to wire in an emergency central locking release switch a la @gookah @jaguartvr

Connected +12v from the battery to a momentary on-off switch in the boot. Flicking this sends12v to the ZKE module which opens the locks.

Just need an emergency, manual cable release for the boot now!

 

[MisterP007]

Could you extend the loom? Good connectors and add in the length of wire you need.

You seem very capable to me

I could extend it all, but the whole purpose of the Grassbank Instruments is “Plug and Play” 15 minutes and all is working. The ETB instruments (cheaper) take 2-days to hook up.

Hopefully I can sort this tomorrow eve.

 

[MisterP007]

We are both using different dashboards than the dashboard they have been designed for so it can't really be blamed on Grassbank. I was hoping to fit the old dash just above the foot pedals, the idea being I could remove the lower panel to check on the proper mileage as I run mine on a limited mileage policy. I'm sure with our feedback the looms will be supplied a bit longer in future, that way we can complain that there is too much wiring to tuck away!
One thing to bear in mind is that all the warning lights are traditional bulbs so you will need access in the future to replace them.

I know what you mean about the different dashes and the original design but Grassbank are selling them as replica instruments and not specifying the dash. Time to have a long chat with Justin.

I though the best place was in the knee panel as well so the display can be viewed.

Long wires that need rolling up and cable tied are better than too short. An electrician friend of mine, when I asked why he “wasted” 6 feet of wire on each downlight he fitted, said, “better looking at it than looking for it”.

 

[MisterP007]

I appreciate my marking up of the photo below is the passenger side, this was because you cannot see the ducting on the driver side.

I recon that the two areas marked are what is fouling the Z3 cluster/circuit board. If I cut these back to create as much depth as possible it should fit.

I will try tomorrow.