Be in touch soon as I need them Andy
Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build
- Thread starter MisterP007
- Start date
Managed to break down the Z3 seats to remove the rails/motor assemblies. Now scratching my head as to how I am going to marry up the Z3 rails with the MGB seats?????
So I decided to fiddle with the dash instead, making templates for inset panels to hold the instruments in place. I need to make them easily removable and so am mounting them on a removable panel for ease of maintenance.
So I decided to fiddle with the dash instead, making templates for inset panels to hold the instruments in place. I need to make them easily removable and so am mounting them on a removable panel for ease of maintenance.
Question is how to measure up to get the seats to marry up. Lots of measuring and fiddling.
I like the way the dash is heading, very reminiscent of my Z4 E89, Good taste Sandy.
Tony.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Points
- 95
Nice to see someone else using CAD, (Cardboard Aided Design), when you get to the advanced level you can use duct tape as well.
I used 2x *5mm thick metal strips, about 50mm wide to bolt to both the seat base and MGB seat. Each strip sitting between the rails on the seat widthways, make them longer than needed and trim them later. Best to fit the seat vase to the car using just the front mounting bolts and plug it in, Put a strip of silver duct tape along the rails on the seat base so you can mark the positions of where you need to drill.
Put the seat base to its highest position as it makes it easier. If you can remove the seat base cushion you get better access and you can just place it back to check clearance.
There isn't a great deal of back to font movement so bear this in mind and aim for the furthest back position. You don't want to drill any more holes in the MGB seat frame so position it on the mounting bars and seat and work out the mounting position and then drill the flat bars through the MGB seat rail holes. When you have done this you can move it around to get the best position and then drill the bars in the BMW seat base. Beware, it looks as if the seat needs mounting close to the centre console but a reasonable gap needs to be kept otherwise it jams, Put the seat base to its lowest setting and check the clearance.
After the seat has been trimmed and fitted, place the side plastic trim up against the MGB seat, the mounting hole on the side needs to be positioned against the seat rail, drilled and a long self tapper fitted, the same at the front but with just a small self tapper. This plastic section is where I was going to fit the heated seat switch. The plastic section mounts perfectly against the MGB seat.
*Sorry but I think the metal strips were 5mm not 3mm. have amended it above
I used 2x *5mm thick metal strips, about 50mm wide to bolt to both the seat base and MGB seat. Each strip sitting between the rails on the seat widthways, make them longer than needed and trim them later. Best to fit the seat vase to the car using just the front mounting bolts and plug it in, Put a strip of silver duct tape along the rails on the seat base so you can mark the positions of where you need to drill.
Put the seat base to its highest position as it makes it easier. If you can remove the seat base cushion you get better access and you can just place it back to check clearance.
There isn't a great deal of back to font movement so bear this in mind and aim for the furthest back position. You don't want to drill any more holes in the MGB seat frame so position it on the mounting bars and seat and work out the mounting position and then drill the flat bars through the MGB seat rail holes. When you have done this you can move it around to get the best position and then drill the bars in the BMW seat base. Beware, it looks as if the seat needs mounting close to the centre console but a reasonable gap needs to be kept otherwise it jams, Put the seat base to its lowest setting and check the clearance.
After the seat has been trimmed and fitted, place the side plastic trim up against the MGB seat, the mounting hole on the side needs to be positioned against the seat rail, drilled and a long self tapper fitted, the same at the front but with just a small self tapper. This plastic section is where I was going to fit the heated seat switch. The plastic section mounts perfectly against the MGB seat.
*Sorry but I think the metal strips were 5mm not 3mm. have amended it above
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Hi Steve
I normally use CAD (Cornflake Aided Design) but was out of Crunchy Nut boxes (SWMBO threw them away thinking they were rubbish!!).
Thanks for the write-up which is very helpful and not dissimilar to how I mounted the MGF seats in the SWB (i used ally channel as they needed to be raised). I mounted these without using the Z3 electrics though as did not feel I needed this. The seats have not been adjusted since March!
On the instruments front I am not going to be in tonight to check the fit but will run them in tomorrow and report back.
.
Crosland Air filters were my favourite.
Tony.
Tony.
Just seen this from @jaguartvr (credited to @gookah ) for emergency deadlock release system.
Great news and will be added to both my projects ASAP.
On the Cali 250 I will also use a hidden Bowden cable to release the boot to get in first, not needed on the 250SWB as the boot lock is a classic mechanical key lock .
Thanks Peeps
Great news and will be added to both my projects ASAP.
Door deadlocking solved! - Madabout Kitcars Forum
Door deadlocking solved! Tribute Automotive Builds
www.madabout-kitcars.com
On the Cali 250 I will also use a hidden Bowden cable to release the boot to get in first, not needed on the 250SWB as the boot lock is a classic mechanical key lock .
Thanks Peeps
Made a couple of ally carriers for the instruments to fit into. These will be either leather covered or painted black to match the dash.
The idea is to have these push fit (on studs?) into the main dash making future access easier (otherwise need to remove the whole dash).
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
Here is my dashboard. I used a scouring pad to roughen the aluminium and then lacquered it. I didn't think it was practical to make it with circles or make it perfectly smooth, but brushed seemed possible. It worked quite well. It took about three days to fettle the holes to get the gauges and lights just right. In the end, I decided to group the centre gauges into just a single plug. I'm glad I did, as one plug takes up a lot less space that five smaller plugs - and it's tight for space behind the console.
How the venting problems were solved...
The fitted instruments and the brushed aluminium inserts...
How the venting problems were solved...
The fitted instruments and the brushed aluminium inserts...
Looks good @Pingu
I am leaving the side eyeball air vents out this time (used Mercedes E-class on the 250SWB) as they are not really needed.
I am also painting the ally carriers to match the dash.
Love your dash mind you.
Managed to get a decent day in yesterday. I continued to focus on the dashboard.
Cut out holes in the dash and trimmed to take the ally carriers.
Heated the GRP with a hot air gun to release air bubbles - not many in this moulding.
Filled the dash and sanded with 80, 180, 240 and 320 grits. Cleaned down with panel wipe.
Sanded the ally carriers, they looked really good in brushed finish but I am going black for these.
2 - coats of primer on everything.
Whilst the primer was drying I marked up the Z3 dash an cut ready to fix to the 250 dash. Found a crack I had not seen before which was raked out and glued down.
More to do on this today so must dash!
Cut out holes in the dash and trimmed to take the ally carriers.
Heated the GRP with a hot air gun to release air bubbles - not many in this moulding.
Filled the dash and sanded with 80, 180, 240 and 320 grits. Cleaned down with panel wipe.
Sanded the ally carriers, they looked really good in brushed finish but I am going black for these.
2 - coats of primer on everything.
Whilst the primer was drying I marked up the Z3 dash an cut ready to fix to the 250 dash. Found a crack I had not seen before which was raked out and glued down.
More to do on this today so must dash!
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
Do you have an image of how much of the original dash you had to cut off? Mine looked a right mess when it was ready, as I didn't know what I was doing, and was cutting / fitting / GRPing for about a week. A bit off here - still doesn't fit - another bit off here - oh bollards, stick a bit back on here and take a bit off there 
.
Doing the job really taught me just how difficult it must be doing it for real in a design studio / fabrication shop.
.Doing the job really taught me just how difficult it must be doing it for real in a design studio / fabrication shop.
Hi @Pingu cutting the dash is basically round the two curves, down each side close to the drop sides (leaving them in place for mounting points). Then straight across the centre about 9” from the back of the curve.Do you have an image of how much of the original dash you had to cut off? Mine looked a right mess when it was ready, as I didn't know what I was doing, and was cutting / fitting / GRPing for about a week. A bit off here - still doesn't fit - another bit off here - oh bollards, stick a bit back on here and take a bit off there
Doing the job really taught me just how difficult it must be doing it for real in a design studio / fabrication shop.
The front firing air ducts need cut back as tight to the two oval side vents as possible .
Here is a piccy or two.
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Today’s minor efforts:
Dash sprayed satin black.
Crack in the Z3 dash filled and painted.
Instruments test fitted.
Both half of the dash bonded together.
Dash sprayed satin black.
Crack in the Z3 dash filled and painted.
Instruments test fitted.
Both half of the dash bonded together.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
I noticed your odometer was on 69,000miles. How did you wind it on?
Mine's different - mine's digital. I may contact the clock makers to see if it can be done.
Does your speedo and tacho flicker when you put on sidelights? The clock maker told me it was a quirk in the circuitry - I'm just wondering if they fixed the gremlin.
Mine's different - mine's digital. I may contact the clock makers to see if it can be done.
Does your speedo and tacho flicker when you put on sidelights? The clock maker told me it was a quirk in the circuitry - I'm just wondering if they fixed the gremlin.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Points
- 95
Totaly different instruments, yours are made by ETB, Sandy's are made by Grassbank.
The Grassbank version is plug n play, almost no wiring is needed at all, the speedo, rev counter, fuel and water temperature all use the existing motors from the Z3 instrument cluster. The oi; pressure and oil temperature are dummy gauges, the needles move as if they work so are very convincing. Simply plug the new instruments complete with the new loom and original binnacle into the 3 plugs under the dash, it really is that simple.
I have fitted both styles and much prefer the Grassbank version due to the ease of fitting and the fact that you don't have an LCD odometer although the Grassbank version is really an hour meter as they use in boats. The original mileage display is however still working and hidden under the dash.
I am pretty sure that you can adjust the mileage on the ETB clocks, just give him a call.
The Grassbank version is plug n play, almost no wiring is needed at all, the speedo, rev counter, fuel and water temperature all use the existing motors from the Z3 instrument cluster. The oi; pressure and oil temperature are dummy gauges, the needles move as if they work so are very convincing. Simply plug the new instruments complete with the new loom and original binnacle into the 3 plugs under the dash, it really is that simple.
I have fitted both styles and much prefer the Grassbank version due to the ease of fitting and the fact that you don't have an LCD odometer although the Grassbank version is really an hour meter as they use in boats. The original mileage display is however still working and hidden under the dash.
I am pretty sure that you can adjust the mileage on the ETB clocks, just give him a call.
Thanks for the reply Steve.
@Pingu I have not test run the gauges yet so cannot answer your questions about flicker etc. I do know when I spoke with ETB they could Pre-set the mileage if they have the gauge back, but it cannot be done DIY.
MOT do not care as they just add new mileage to previous MOT, interestingly they record the new mileage on the MOT document.
@Pingu I have not test run the gauges yet so cannot answer your questions about flicker etc. I do know when I spoke with ETB they could Pre-set the mileage if they have the gauge back, but it cannot be done DIY.
MOT do not care as they just add new mileage to previous MOT, interestingly they record the new mileage on the MOT document.
Dash now bonded together nicely, a quick 3rd coat of Satin Black and all done.
