Rebody Z3 Based Ferrari 250 California Build

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
Two lengths of Stainless steel angle arrived today:

2000mm long, 100 x 100 90 deg angle 1.2mm thick and very nice brushed surface. These are for use as sill covers.

The ebay seller had made a mistake on the listing and had 1500mm at £36 each, but 2000 lengths at only £6.30 each. I thought it had to be worth a try so I ordered two on overnight courier (to make sure they sent them before they noticed the price must be wrong).

RESULT: they arrived today £20 total inc delivery!

Just looked at the listing again and they are £46 each and probably still good value!


I need to do a bit of cutting and shutting to make it work properly but hey-ho!
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
Well, the £6.30 stainless steel now looks like this.

Got to make a blanking angle to seal the top of the cover sill at the front end.

0A8F6C82-10FE-441E-844F-C3DFBE4AB32A.jpeg
349C2128-0A51-4952-B5FF-EA0D69D92E00.jpeg
B2ED94ED-6426-4C26-B52E-631D7ABCC80B.jpeg
56CCE002-9FBA-4725-B0DF-FE0E8EBC5B5C.jpeg
56CCE002-9FBA-4725-B0DF-FE0E8EBC5B5C.jpeg
829FC222-DE17-4F20-AF1D-F5147226F8B9.jpeg
 

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
I think it looks better without the stainless, sorry. It almost looks as if the chassis is showing, with the existing BMW sills the lower section that shows is tapered which softens the look. Most people have just painted the exposed section black, I wonder how it would look if you stone chipped it and painted it in the body colour?
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
I think it looks better without the stainless, sorry. It almost looks as if the chassis is showing, with the existing BMW sills the lower section that shows is tapered which softens the look. Most people have just painted the exposed section black, I wonder how it would look if you stone chipped it and painted it in the body colour?
Hi Steve,

I know what you mean, it initially looks “heavy” like a big, fat RSJ. I think this will vanish when the car is painted, especially as the car colour is Silver.
 
Last edited:

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
You could paint the top inch silver and leave the rest stainless, that I think would take the heavy look away.It's not as if it in line with your eyes unless you are on your knees
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
The plan is to fill the bottom of the GRP down to the correct curve which will reduce the stainless by another 1/2”. The SS part is then only about 1 1/2” tall, which on a bright silver car will not be heavy.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
This evenings messing about:
  • formed some stainless steel capping for the gap in the top of the stainless steel sill cover. Bonded in place
  • Cut out the crack in the front GRP valance. Drilled out bonding holes
  • GRP matting applied behind the crack with an aluminium brace bonded in
  • And, in the last picture, made my interpretation of Starry Night by Van Gogh

    4FEE2C81-FC49-4417-A891-5F7BBFA6EA1A.jpeg
    C9DEF33C-9027-4714-BCC7-1BE762F2CE9E.jpeg
    A114B488-0D2A-44F5-A9B8-10985D539918.jpeg
    203BEA07-DDEA-44E2-8EE9-32FC457BB79F.jpeg
    73AB62BA-572A-4879-BDA5-7427C9ED5A4E.jpeg
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
Look what arrived today!

So tempting to start on the dash now but the outside is not done yet.

IMG_3308.JPG
IMG_5319.JPG
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
Car is still outside in the drive in the pouring rain so diverted to the workshop and made a start on restoring the seats.

454D4EBC-62E7-427C-BC55-A30C90D7DA5E.jpeg
C4F6B23E-4765-45A2-B5F2-8B228AA7981E.jpeg
61078571-1AD9-4651-9F78-35B1FD8EB376.jpeg
C9B20B41-B0F6-4B95-825C-6EF45736BC3C.jpeg
178795D5-6C1C-4C1C-8009-FAAA1E21FE1E.jpeg
94A4D0DE-EFDB-45F2-A888-5EB9E05C8CBB.jpeg
83CA9A28-318F-42BD-9221-FB0488DD5281.jpeg
47C03554-87F7-4937-996D-4C06B4EE854E.jpeg
F53E7360-F905-4BD9-868B-0827FC7BDA55.jpeg
251395BE-27D3-438E-AA87-CC4BA6F76FB3.jpeg
 

Pingu

Zorg Guru (III)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Points
145
It looks like you are using a grinding disc. I'd recommend using a flap disc. It's just as effective at removing surface rust, but won't damage the seats as much - btw, your seats don't look damaged.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
It looks like you are using a grinding disc. I'd recommend using a flap disc. It's just as effective at removing surface rust, but won't damage the seats as much - btw, your seats don't look damaged.
Hi @Pingu

The cutting disc was only there to cut the headrest brackets off. I cleaned the surface rust with 100 grit sandpaper by hand as I find it easier on intricate parts.

I have then thoroughly cleaned them with panel wipe allowed to dry and then rust treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80.

I know what you mean about flap wheels though, very handy sometimes.

The seat frames are pretty much un damaged apart from having to re-seat one of the torsion springs for the reclining mechanism (god those things are strong, I needed to use a 2-foot long bar to pull it into place).

Seat foams need a bit of repair work but all else is good.

Heading to my workshop in 1/2 hour or so to spray the frames.
 
Last edited:

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
Best for removing rust and paint is a fine wire cup that fits on an angle grinder. The fine brushes are normally brass in colour and remove rust and paint but won't mark the surface. You can get twisted steel coloured brushes, these are much more aggressive and will remove deep rust and mark the metal. You must wear eye protection, I always do and wear a thick fleece, after I have finished there is always a pile of wires from the cup embedded in my fleece.
I also use the fine wire disc for cleaning up alloy cylinder heads and fins on motorcycle engines, works a treat. You can get many different sizes and shapes, you can also get them for drill fitting but they are nowhere near as effective but useful for areas where the angle grinder is too large.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
Decided to continue restoring the seats.
  • Frames primed and painted satin black Including the card backs
  • Oiled the mechanism
  • Fitted new rubber seat web
  • Added extra webbing to seat backs as the MG seats do not have any
  • Repaired damaged sections of seat foams
  • Glued foams in place
  • Although the seat foams are fine they look awful so glued a thin cloth cover over the foam. This will also help make the covers easier to pull on
I made a start on stripping the Z3 seat base but did not get very far.
0122DD70-48E2-4D6E-B96D-6BC07FC50DDC.jpeg
3EA55773-6141-43ED-8A74-A02733CB2103.jpeg
6E8E69F1-4E3F-4710-81DE-872DFD75D859.jpeg
783B1B0D-41DC-4149-861C-FF3D8C6117EB.jpeg
8D5C5947-7FDB-47E0-9099-B5DEC329FEA4.jpeg
34B923DB-22A5-440D-930D-C2AC0E4B0BC4.jpeg
95D1146C-955A-4AC8-B14E-BC4A048AFABF.jpeg
9BD785D4-D69D-4DE7-BAB3-4DF900A0DB5A.jpeg
C4E5D994-9B99-4906-8567-9C858DA2DABE.jpeg
80B035C5-A282-4FC3-A075-69E155EAE586.jpeg
2B356E65-8C1D-4378-A410-008A04FE60C2.jpeg
B9EC5C90-09EB-4655-8E16-A54F2AF4C088.jpeg
91A0CEE8-4FEE-4C5A-8DD1-56ED8FB99EDF.jpeg
94FBAD02-0195-427C-8BBA-1F3B00973A1A.jpeg
 

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
Now is the time to consider fitting heating pads, I got a kit from eBay for about £25.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
I was wondering about that as well. Presumably, the loom is pre-wired for heated seats?
 

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
Mine already has heated seats but the wires are the very thin type so I presume go to a relay or some other electrickery. I presume the timer is in the original BMW switch but am just guessing. I can feel a grovelling request to gookah for more help
The heated pad loom comes with heavy wires, switch and fuse so I was going to wire them directly to the battery or nearby heavy 12v source.
 

gookah

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 7, 2011
Points
170
Location
Shropshire
Model of Z
2.8 Z3
the switch indeed has a timer in it, on full heat, the supply is on constantly to the seat
in half heat, the supply pulses on and off. A few seconds on, a few seconds off (I forget the exact times)
if you wire your seat pads to the seat harness under the seats you should find the following wires

drivers seat:
Brown is earth
white/red is +12v to seat base
white/green is +12v to backrest

passenger seat:
Brown is earth
white/yellow is +12v to seat base
white/blue is +12v to backrest

supply your pads as above, seat base and backrest to spread the load onto separate circuits.
I am not sure of the wattage of your pads but the circuit is fitted with a 15amp fuse so the wiring is capable of carrying 180 amps.
 

MisterP007

German-Italian-British Mix - What could go wrong?
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Points
144
Location
Tunbridge Wells
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
Thanks @gookah correct me if I am incorrect below please.

@jaguartvr Looks like we are going to need BMW, timed heated seat switches to run the aftermarket seat pads for our beasties. Could mount them under dash or wire back to the plastic seat trims.

A quick search on ebay shows £15-20 each. @spurs fan in a coupe do you have any?
 

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
In my eBay special kit, 2 wires one with a 15 amp fuse running to a relay. Two wrapped cables coming from the relay, one to a switch, high-off-low and the other cable splits in 2, one to the back rest the other to the seat base. The switches are black and round and only about 20mm in diameter so a lot less noticeable than the big BMW switches, I aim to mount them in the existing BMW seat base plastic trim.
I just need to know where would be best to connect the positive and negative feed wires. Each seat has its own loom, can I join the two sets of feed wires together or is this unwise, Ideally I would like to have the feeds shut off when the ignition is off.
Over to our resident electrikery wizard!

*UPDATE*
I have had the seat and wiring connected to a car battery all works but the switch isn't timed. If you disconnect the wire from the battery and then reconnect it, the switch is still on, I can see this being a problem.
 
Last edited:

spurs fan in a coupe

Zorg Guru (V)
Supporter
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
175
Thanks @gookah correct me if I am incorrect below please.

@jaguartvr Looks like we are going to need BMW, timed heated seat switches to run the aftermarket seat pads for our beasties. Could mount them under dash or wire back to the plastic seat trims.

A quick search on ebay shows £15-20 each. @spurs fan in a coupe do you have any?
I have heated seat switches yes
 
Top